Car Maintenance : How to Prepare Your Car for a Road Trip

Car Maintenance : How to Prepare Your Car for a Road Trip Tube. Duration : 1.35 Mins.

When preparing a car for a road trip, the first thing to do is to go over everything inside the engine bay and make sure all fluid levels are appropriate. Check the battery connection on a car before going on a road trip with help from a specialist in car restoration in this free video on car maintenance and auto repairs. Expert: Gabe Braedt Bio: Gabe Braedt currently works restoring car bodies at a local shop. Filmmaker: stephen kuykendall

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Car Maintenance for Rainy Day Driving

For most people, you have to get up and drive somewhere almost every day, despite the weather. Although you cannot specifically outfit your car for driving in the rain, there are some maintenance tips that you should follow to keep you safe should you have to drive in the rain.

First, one of the most important safety features for rainy weather is your windshield wipers. Your windshield protects you from the physical impact of the rain, yet you can still lose visibility in the rain if the drops build up on your windshield. Windshield wipers can wipe away these water droplets as slowly or quickly as you need, clearing your field of vision so that you can still see. However, wipers are not infallible, and they should be replaced regularly. If you live in a hot, dry climate, you may have to replace your wipers  more often because the heat can dry out the rubber blade on your wiper, disabling it from brushing away the water.

How To Replace Brake Pads

Next, your tires are also key for gripping wet pavement. When it first starts raining, or after a light rain, the water lifts up the oil, grease, lubricant, and other slick substances from the asphalt. Combined, this makes a very slippery surface. Additionally, you can hydroplane in deeper puddles, which occurs when the water builds up under the tire so that your car is basically floating. To keep you safe, make sure your tires still have plenty of tread, and you can even get special tires that are meant to help you push away the rain. If you stick a penny in the tire tread and can see all of Lincoln's head, it is time to get new tires.

Car Maintenance for Rainy Day Driving

Lastly, braking becomes more difficult in the rain as well. Water can splash up on your brake pads, making them slippery and less likely to come to a sudden stop. If you are sliding, this can quickly turn into a disaster. Thus, give your brakes regular check ups to replace worn pads. Newer pads can give you stronger grip for better braking in the rain.

Car Maintenance for Rainy Day Driving Tutorial: How to uninstall Honda brake rotor screws Video Clips. Duration : 2.38 Mins.

Honda's are infamous for having screws in the brake rotors to hold them in place from the factory. These screws many times are difficult to get out without stripping the screw. I show you a couple different ways to remove them. Also, if your rotor is stuck to your hub, I show you how to get them off the correct way, no hammers involved! Dual hammer method source: www.youtube.com Check him out! He's got lots of great tutorials as well!

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Basic Bicycle Maintenance

Most people go out for a bike ride for enjoyment, but don't give enough thought to the prevention of problems that may occur. By just taking a few minutes to make sure your bike is well-tuned before you set out, you can keep from spending hours on issues later.

One of the most important things to purchase along with your bike is a simple tool kit. If the bike salesman doesn't offer you one, make sure to ask for it. The first time you need to use it, you'll be happy you bought it.

How To Replace Brake Pads

So now that you have a sturdy bicycle and a good, basic tool kit, what next? The best thing to do is to perform some routine preventive maintenance before problems come up on the ride.

Basic Bicycle Maintenance

Some bicycles need more maintenance than others. This also depends on your style of riding. For instance, if you occasionally ride through town, your bike won't need as much care as if you ride a mountain bike on trails. But even so, routine checks will benefit the occasional rider as much as the die-hard mountain biker.

The things that need regular checking on a bike are very similar to what a mechanic needs to check on your car.

One of the obvious things to check on both a bike and car are brakes. When you squeeze the brakes on the handlebar of a bike, it causes the brake pads to compress over the metal frame of the wheel. It won't cause you to stop immediately, but will slow you down enough for you to put your feet down.

So regularly make sure that your brake pads are not worn down. Replace them if they are. Also check that the pads are making contact with the metal of the wheel and not the tire itself. If they connect with the wrong part, it could cause you to stop on a dime, which will most likely result in you taking a tumble over the handlebars. Not fun.

Something else that needs to be checked regularly are the wheels. Just like in a car, air pressure in bike tires can change. So make sure you check the pressure and add more air if needed. If a tire has the incorrect amount of air pressure, it will affect your ability to stop. You could also get flats more often when you drive over obstacles because the tire could get pinched around them (this is called pinch flats).

Also keep an eye on your treads. It's very important to have good treads and replace the tire if they are too low.

Check your seat and make sure it hasn't become wobbly. If it has, just tighten it with a wrench from your trusty tool kit.

Make sure your bike chain is not becoming encrusted with grime. If it gets too dirty, it could impact how well it changes gears. And you don't want shifting gears to fail at a time when you are expecting them to work properly, such as when you come to a hill.

So if your chain is becoming too dirty, clean it. The traditional way is to remove it and soak it in a container of solvent. But you can also buy an on-the-bike cleaning machine which clips on the chain and allows it to pass through brushes/solvent without removing the chain first.

Also keep an eye on your bike frame and watch for rust. A small spot of rust can quickly grow and cause weak areas on your frame. To prevent rust, try not to leave your bicycle outside in harsh weather without a waterproof cover on it.

By taking just a little time to do some routine maintenance, you'll lengthen the life of your bike and allow yourself to enjoy a worry-free ride.

Basic Bicycle Maintenance Jeep Grand Cherokee broken rear parking brake Tube. Duration : 0.43 Mins.

After two weeks of the parking brake being applied, it stuck on and the friction material came off the shoes

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Routine Vehicle Maintenance

In order to ensure that your car is safe to be on the road, you must perform routine maintenance. While most people know about oil changes and brake pad replacements, there are several other things you should consider regularly. A properly maintained car can reduce your risk for automobile accidents and injury.

Monthly

How To Replace Brake Pads

When you raise the hood of your car, if what you see looks as foreign as Arabic, you may want to have a friend familiarize you with your vehicle. If this isn't an option, don't panic. It's not as complex as it may seem.

Routine Vehicle Maintenance

Each month you should inspect your vehicle's lights to make sure they are functioning. To do this, just turn on your car and get out. Walk around, inspecting headlights, tail lights, side lights, and brake lights. In order to check your brake lights, you may need someone else to press the brakes while you look. If no one is around, you can use a heavy rock or brick to apply pressure to the brakes while you investigate. If a light is not working, take your car to the mechanic.

Additionally, each month you should check your tires. Tires with too little air can increase your chances of having a blow-out, as well as reducing your gas mileage. Each tire is printed with a recommended psi. Use a hand tool to determine what level psi your tires are at. If they are too low, go to a gas station and add air until they reach the desired psi.

Another easy monthly check-up you can perform at home is making certain that you have enough windshield wiper fluid. This is a clearly marked container, typically located on the left side of your engine. If the liquid is below the recommended "fill line," add water.

Quarterly

Oil changes vary depending on how frequently and how far you drive your vehicle, but the average person should get their oil changed every three months, or between 3,000 and 5,000 miles. While you are getting your oil changed, ask your mechanic to:

• Rotate your tires

• Check your fluids (power steering and transmission, especially)

• Inspect your belts and hoses

Yearly

While most maintenance needs to be done more than once a year, there are a few things that only require your attention annually, such as:

• Checking your brake pads and fluids. If worn down, replace brake pads

• Steering and suspension

• Spark plugs

• Antifreeze levels. Do this before the first freeze, as this will prevent your liquids from freezing up the engine.

While properly maintaining your vehicle will guarantee its longevity, it can also prevent accidents from occurring.

Routine Vehicle Maintenance Brake Replacement 2005 Mercury Montego AWD Ford Five Hundred AWD Video Clips. Duration : 9.70 Mins.

A step-by-step instructional video. How to replace brakes (and rotors) on your Ford Five Hundred or Mercury Montego.

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Cycling Maintenance for Mountain Bikes : Adjust Brakes on Mountain Bikes

Cycling Maintenance for Mountain Bikes : Adjust Brakes on Mountain Bikes Video Clips. Duration : 1.65 Mins.

Learn how to adjust brakes to suit your riding style and ergonomics in thisfree online video on cycling maintenance. Expert: Mickey Denoncourt Contact: www.spookybikes.com Bio: Mickey Denoncourt owns Spooky Bikes, at www.spookybikes.com. Filmmaker: Christian Munoz-Donoso

Tags: mountain, bike, biker, brake, pads, riding, bicycle, free, video, expertvillage, howto

Mountain Bike Maintenance - Mechanics 101

Mountain bike maintenance can become an obstacle course, if you don't have some basic skills.

Owning a mountain bike - whether you are a serious rider or simply enjoy it as a sport - is an investment in time and money. Protect that investment by learning a few tricks of the trade as far as mountain bike maintenance is concerned.

How To Replace Brake Pads

The first important thing in mountain bike maintenance is very simple: keep your bike clean! Wipe off excess dirt once a week, using a dry cloth or a damp soapy sponge. During wet weather, or with frequent use, it is a good idea to wash your bike after every ride. If you don't do this, you will find that there are a lot of sticky stuff out there that may become unwelcome, permanent fixtures.

Mountain Bike Maintenance - Mechanics 101

Another regular habit you need to adopt as part of mountain bike maintenance, is degreasing the chain and drivetrain. How often you do this depends on how often you ride. It should be done once a month at least, and up to two or three times per month if you ride on a regular basis.

Lubrication of the chain is essential. There are many excellent lubricants on the market. Choose one that suits your needs. Keep in mind that newer lubricants such as White Lightning are self-cleaning, which minimizes mountain bike maintenance.

It is best to apply lubricant the night before you ride. Doing it ten minutes before, prevents it from getting into the chain properly.

As part of mountain bike maintenance, it is vital to maintain the correct air pressure in the tires. Taking care of this small detail will protect your expensive tires. It also prevents frequent tube problems.

Gear cables tend to stretch over time, which makes gear shifting less effective. Gear and brake cables should be checked regularly, and replaced more often than most people realize. New ones should be put in every six to nine months as part of general mountain bike maintenance, and the cable housing should be replaced at the same time.

Another item on you mountain bike maintenance list, is your brake pads. These wear extremely fast. You need to check the alignment of the brake pads against the rims. They should sit squarely on the rim when the brakes are applied.

When relaxed, they should be clear of the sidewall of your tire as it turns. Replace the brake pads when they get to the wear line. Allowing them to go onto the metal casing, will damage your rims.

Check all the nuts and bolts in your monthly mountain bike maintenance routine. Invest in an Allen key or spanner and tighten the loose bolts, such as crank bolts, seatpost bolts, and headset locknuts.

Lastly, one simple way to look after your bike is to keep it under cover, preferably indoors. Don't expose it to the elements any more than necessary.

Be careful when using a bike cover outside. These tend to trap moisture between the cover and the ground, and will cause the steel parts on your bike to corrode more rapidly, giving cause for more mountain bike maintenance than you ever had in mind!

Take good care of your bike and it will take good care of you!

For more information visit Best-Mountain-Biking.com

Mountain Bike Maintenance - Mechanics 101 Brakes - You could spend more but why? Tube. Duration : 0.52 Mins.

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Some Main Tools for Car Maintenance

There are some basic car maintenance tasks you can do by yourself. You only need to equip yourself with some main tools. With these tools, you don't need to call a road service for a simple maintenance task such as fixing tire or replacing the fluids. It will be able to help you save money in a long run.

Jack, Wrench and Tire Iron

How To Replace Brake Pads

You have to always remember to keep the car jack, wrench, and tire iron while on the go. It will be very beneficial if you get flat tire. Place the jack under the car close to the flat tire for lifting the car up so that you can easily remove the tire. Wrench will help you remove wheel lugs or bolt while the tire iron can help you secure the wheel lugs back to the spare tire while on the wheel. In addition, wrench is useful to remove oil tank bolt. You will use it in case you perform oil change.

Some Main Tools for Car Maintenance

Funnel for Fluids

Funnel will help you perform the maintenance task such as replacing fluids like transmission fluid, oil, and brake fluid. This is one of the most important parts of car maintenance. With this tool, you will be able to avoid the spillage while filling up the fluid reserves.

Tire Pressure Gauge

Tire pressure gauge will help you keep air in the tire at the appropriate level. Driving the car with low pressure air will reduce the efficiency of the fuel since under-inflated tire can make the engine work harder. Later, it can affect the steering. Therefore, before driving, you have to make sure that the tire pressure is at the appropriate level. To measure the tire pressure, you only need to place it over the nozzle of your tire. This tool shows you the reading on the tire pressure through the small poles which looks like a thermometer.

Battery Charger and Air Machine

Car battery charger is beneficial in case you are running out of the power since you accidentally leave the lights on. To solve your problem, you only need to attach the handles of charger to the according red and black connections and then switch the device on to charge it. Instead, you can also get the jumper cables and connect the handles to another car. In addition, you can also have an air machine for filling up the flattened tire.

Some Main Tools for Car Maintenance 2007 TOYOTA COROLLA Video Clips. Duration : 0.88 Mins.

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Maintenance Special Columbus OH Lancaster

germaintoyota.net September 2010 Special Germain Toyota of Columbus OH 5777 Scarborough Blvd Columbus OH, 43232 866-456-8859 Front Brake Special - $25 off! -- Includes: -Replace front brake pads or shoes -Inspect rotors, drums & calipers -Check brake fluid level -Road test vehicle Road-Ready...

The Basics of Classic Car Maintenance - Fluids

As a start we will consider petrol and diesel, apart from the obvious that you have enough for your journey it is worth checking the whole fuel system at least once a year, diesel because it has a habit of finding paths and holes that most other fluids don't and petrol because if it does leak, a hot surface or spark can cause an explosion, I know I have been there with leaky carburettors dripping onto the exhaust pipe.

First check the fuel tank, invariably in old cars it is made from pressed steel and is subject to corrosion especially where straps or fixings are. Give it a good look over for any bubbles or spots that look damp/dark and check to see if the fuel gauge moves much at regular intervals when the car is parked up. Next check the pipework, again many cars had steel pipes with later replacements being copper or plastic (plastic being particularly vulnerable from hot exhaust pipes as many manufactures ran the two pipes close to each other!)

Hopefully someone will have fitted a petrol filter under the bonnet to stop any debris or rust reaching and blocking the carburettors. Looking at this will help to indicate any corrosion from the tank and pipework that maybe present, so replace it following any repairs to these to give you a clean slate. For diesels the fuel filter will not be transparent but is likely to resemble an oil filter.

Also check the fuel pump for operation (easier if it is electric) by connecting an alternative outlet hose to a petrol can, caution here as you are combining electricity and flammable vapour, and see that the pump keeps running with the ignition on.

And finally with the ignition on/or engine started and switched off check the carburettor(s) for any damp/dark patches particularly around where the fuel pipes join the carbs. Alternatively check the injector pump and interconnecting pipework to and from the injectors on the cylinder head.

As standard advice it is always essential to check the cooling water level but there are other things to check for. It is worth noting that it is not so important if you over fill the cooling system as the water level should adjust itself and find a natural level. While you have the radiator or filler cap off the car it is worth considering the colour. Good clean cooling water should appear slightly green or blue from the anti-freeze and corrosion inhibitor.

If the water is brown this means that there is corrosion or rust in the system, a certain amount is to be expected as this happens as a matter of course. If the water is very cloudy or you are unsure it may be worth draining the water, flushing it through and refilling with new water and anti-freeze. This should be checked again after a few days or 50 miles or so to see if the problem has been rectified.

If the water has an oily sheen or rainbow this should be investigated further as it may be bad news. Sometimes it is just the natural oils from the various components that leach out when they are new, such as lubricants that are used in pumps or from sealants if used. However it maybe a signal that there is a more serious problem and the engine lubricating oil is getting into the cooling system and a major engine failure may not be too far away, hopefully your engine oil checks should help indicate this.

It is recommended that cooling water be changed yearly but I have found very couple of years is usually adequate due to the low mileage my classic cars do.

Engine lubricating oil is again essential to the running of the engine. It is important with this to make sure there is neither too much or too little. If there is too little the engine can get dry become damaged and even seize, if too much the oil can bubble and build up back pressure in the lower parts of the engine & eventually damage the crank shaft and pistons. For this reason it is very important that you make sure you have the right dipstick in your engine, even engines of the same type can have different dipsticks as they can vary in how they are constructed or how the oil circulates, check with your local club or specialist classic car garage.

Also if possible check that the right oil has been used as older engines or fast running engines require different thickness of oils and different care to modern engines.

Typical places for oil leaks on classic cars are
• The sump plug (bottom of the engine), if worn, improperly tightened or the copper washer on the plus has hardened over time. Sometimes the gasket will leak, usually symptoms of a bigger fault and sometimes the sump can be cracked, especially with cast steel or aluminum sumps.
• The rocker cover, if the gasket has hardened (often cork in older cars), over tightened or not fitted correctly. These leaks are usually straightforward to fix by fitting a new gasket.
• The rear end of the crankshaft (where the flywheel and clutch are fixed) because of worn seals (and it has to be said usually poor design from the manufacturers). This leak is very common do not panic unless you are losing a lot of oil or you are also having clutch trouble. The oil from this leak is handy for coating the underside of your car preventing rust, but you should aim to have the leak fixed.
• Oil filter, because of poor fitting, tired gaskets or just rattling loose. Again these leaks are straight forward to fix.

If your engine is leaking oil from other places it probably is not good news so check it out with a specialist. Another item relating to oil worth regular changes is the oil filler cap as these are often vented and contain wire mesh filters that can get dirty and allow over pressurisation of the oil system.

Things to look for in engine oil:
• If it has the consistency of treacle when cold its is overdue for an oil change
• If it appears very black, again time for a change of oil
• If it has lumps, a flush and oil change should be done as a minimum
• If it has a lot of white/brown goo or 'mayonnaise' then a change might be due, however it is also a symptom of a head gasket failure which allows the cooling water into the oil thus creating the 'mayonnaise'. Sometimes though small amounts of this can be formed through condensation if the car has been sat around for long periods.

Oil should be changed at the mileage intervals advised by the manufacturer, though if you are doing less miles each year then yearly is recommended. I usually change the filter every other oil change as well because I don't always know the service history of the engine from the past so there may be some debris from wear in the oil system.

Whilst on oils I will next go through gearbox lubricating oil including rear axle oil for rear wheel drive cars. This should not often require replacing or topping up unless you have a leak, and leaks on rear axles are very common although not usually big enough to concern you too much. Many classic cars provide additional access to reach filler plugs for gearboxes and axles to which the owners' manuals can point but may require the lifting of carpets and/or the rear seat. Another advantage is in some post war classic cars is that some gearboxes also have their own dipsticks, a feature that disappeared as gearboxes became more reliable.

Though the oils do not normally need regular changing it is always worth an annual level check or when you suspect a leak or gain a noise. It should be noted that differential whine from the rear axle is quite common and is often just wear and tear rather than lack of lubrication.

Certainly for the rear axle you may need a specialist sump plug spanner. Like the engine the gearbox and axle may require different oils depending on their age. Some older gearboxes are happy with engine oil and later gearboxes use specialist gear oil, also often used in hotter climates.

The contents of the oil are more difficult to check here especially with the available light but you can look for the following:
• If it has the consistency of treacle when cold its is overdue for an oil change
• If it has a lot white 'mayonnaise' then a change might be due, however it is also a symptom of condensation if the car has been sat around for long periods.
You may feel more comfortable changing the oil in any case so you know what you are starting with.

Brake fluid - now obviously you want to make sure you have enough of this so that you can stop when you need to but what many people miss is that brake fluid can degrade and separate causing corrosion to the brake components and loss of force at the wheels when you push the brake pedal.

It is well worth checking the brake fluid level on a 3 monthly basis to see that it has not changed much, apart from a level drop being a sign of worn brake pads/shoes a big level drop could be a sign of a leak. A level drop should be avoided because of the aforementioned but also because you may allow air into the system which reduces the effectiveness of the brakes as air compresses more readily than brake fluid.

When bleeding brakes the following things should be looked for:
• Bubbles, could be a sign of a leak that is allowing air in as well as fluid out
• Black colour, sign of various components corroding, particularly steel pipes
• Bits, again a sign of corrosion

When any of these occur it is advisable to check all the components and replace those identified as faulty. It is also worth keeping the bleeding process going until the defect(s) disappear as the contaminated brake fluid may still be in the retained parts.

Another problem with braking components is external corrosion which can wear pipes and make them leak or rust together which will require all the corroded components to be replaced. Here a bit of copper grease may keep it at bay, and if you have them try to maintain the rubber/plastic dirt caps on bleed nipples.

One of the weakest points on braking systems are the flexible hoses that connect the wheel brakes to allow suspension movement. Apart from perishing and splitting these can also suffer from laminating which makes the walls weaker and prone to expanding under pressure, therefore the force from the brake pedal gets used up in the pipes rather than the wheel cylinders or callipers. Often pipes with external metal braiding are available which reduces this risk, but these are only good whilst they are clean and not corroded.

Although the list above gives a general overview it should be enough to get you started and let you gain confidence carrying out your own maintenance and with time tackle more involved tasks replacing parts of the car.

Preventive Maintenance System

The Preventive Maintenance System is a series of service and repair
procedures performed at regularly scheduled intervals, to prolong the
life of your vehicle, and to minimize the chances of unexpected
breakdowns.

Why is the Preventive Maintenance System so important?

1. Ignoring the regular maintenance schedule will void the vehicle
manufacturer's warranty.

2. Maintenance doesn't cost a lot of money, unexpected repairs do!

3. It doesn't take a lot of time or inconvenience to do regular maintenance.

4. Many service facilities will do an oil change and fluids check while
you wait.

5. It's not a good feeling to know that your vehicle is not reliable. Regular maintenance makes the vehicle more dependable.

The preventive maintenance schedule is different for every vehicle. Some
vehicles are driven short distances, and not every day. Most vehicles are
driven in "stop and go" traffic for hours. Vehicle's manufacturers call this
"severe" service, and maintenance intervals for this type of driving are
much more frequent.

This website will give you basic guidelines for following your vehicle's
preventive maintenance schedule. You can't go wrong following these
simple recommendations, and adjusting the maintenance schedule
intervals in accordance with your type of driving.

The best source for the manufacturer's recommended maintenance
schedule for your particular vehicle, is the "Owner's Manual".

Contemporary cars and trucks should serve reliably for at least 200,000
miles. The key is the Preventive Maintenance System!

Let's take a look into the Preventive Maintenance System structure.

This system consist from:

1) routine inspections

2) regularly scheduled maintenance

3) scheduled replacements: brakes, timing belt, etc.

The Routine Inspections

The Inspections are a very important part of the Preventive Maintenance System.

There are two types of inspections to be done on your vehicle.

The first type -

is an inspection that you are probably doing right now and don't even realize it -
the visual inspection that you give youe vehicle every time you drive it...

You see your vehicle every day, and if you train your eye, you can spot the first
signs of trouble. You can save yourself a lot of money if you learn a few simple
inspection routines. Even if you know absolutely nothing about cars (how could
this be?), a simple inspection routine is very easy to learn.

First, let's examine the things that you can spot without any extra effort, such as
worn tires or fluid leaks. Bad tires are pretty obvious, and easy to spot - look
for the sag and bulge at the bottom of the tire that indicates dangerously low
air pressure. An under-inflated tire can cause loss of control of the vehicle!
Replacing a worn set of tires can save your life!

Fluid leaks are also easy to spot. After your vehicle is parked overnight, look
under the engine compartment, first thing in the morning. If you see a green
puddle, you've got a problem...
Look under the hood of your vehicle and see if there is a leaking radiator or
heater hose. If this is a case, don't start the engine - call for a tow truck. It may
cost you a little up front but you are saving the engine, and a lot of money!

Other checks are also easy to accomplish, you just have to make a little time
for them. About once a week - or each time you fill up the gas tank, if you put
a lot of miles on your vehicle - check the fluid levels. The most important check
you can perform is to keep an eye on your engine's oil level. A low oil level can
damage your engine! Keeping the oil at the proper level can save your engine
and save you a lot of money!

A low level of antifreeze can cause your engine to overheat - a surefire way to
destroy the engine! Also, the low level of antifreeze can indicate a more serious
problem - this is a reason to see a professional mechanic, to detect a potential
leak.

As you can see, you are the very first "line of defense" for your vehicle!

If you know how to replace a tire, you can inspect the front disc brakes yourself.
Remove the tire and look at the brake pads. Immediately next to the round brake
rotor, you will see a brake pad supported by a metal plate. There are two pads,
one on each side of the rotor. The thickness of a new pad is 3/8" (10mm).
If the brake pad thickness is less than 1/8" (3mm), it's time for a brake job.
Other important things to look for are excessive wear of the rear brake shoes
(if so equipped) and any evidence of leaking brake fluid.

While driving, keep an eye on your light and gauges. Know your light! If the "oil"
light comes on, pull over very carefully and shut the engine off immediately!
After waiting for a few minutes, check the engine's oil level, and add oil if needed,
before driving again, even if this means waiting until additional oil can be brought
to you!

If, while on the road, the temperature gauge needle jumps to the red zone - pull over
carefully and shut the engine off! Do not, I repeat, DO NOT try to remove the
radiator car right away! A very serious burn can be the result! Look at the
transparent reservoir for the antifreeze level ( the label on the reservoir's cap
typically says: Engine coolant only!) Remove the capfrom the reservoir if necessary,
and check if coolant is present inside. Add antifreeze or water if needed.

It's very tempting to drive the vehicle that last mile to a gas station by yourself,
to save the towing charge, but it makes no sense to destroy a $1500 engine (plus
labor cost and time without the car) to avoid a $75 tow charge!
The "oil" light and the temperature gauge are designed to be a warning for you -
to save your engine from destruction, and save yourself a lot of money!

The second type of inspection -
is the type done by professional mechanics.

At every oil change, ask the mechanic to look over the bottom of your vehicle
for leaks, broken axle and power steering boots. and to check the condition
of belts and tires. It's not going to cost a lot of additional money, but it can provide
you with very important information about your car's condition, every 3,000 miles.

All four tires should be balanced and rotated every 5,000 miles.

Balancing means that tires should be removed from the vehicle, and put on a
special computer controlled machine, that spins each tire to a speed of approximately
65 miles per hour, and then shows the technician the precise position to attach
special weights, to eliminate vibration.

Rotation means that tires that were in the front of your vehicle will be moved to the
rear, and vice versa.

This is also a good time to inspect your brakes or by yourself, or ask the technician
to do so. If the technician detects a problem, this is a good reason for a visit to a
repair shop.

You will then know condition of your brakes, every 5,000 miles.

1) The quick inspections done by yourself:

a) Leaks (oil, antifreeze - every day)

b) Once a week, under the hood (belts, hoses)

2) At every oil change (check for leaks under the car, tire condition and air pressure)

3) At every balancing and rotation of tires, the inspection of the tires and brakes will

give you a pretty good idea about their condition.

In short, if you are driving about 1000 miles per month, inspecting for leaks under the
vehicle will be done every 3rd month, and checking the condition of tires and brakes
will be done every 5th month. And you have to look your vehicle over for flat or under
inflated tires and visible leaks under the vehicle, every day or every other day.

That's all it takes!

Preventive Maintenance Tips to Check and Troubleshoot the Repair of Document Scanner Problems

Maintenance and care of equipment is essential to prevent costly repairs and to save unnecessary service calls. In most cases, malfunctions are resolved by operator checks and corrective action. Your wallet will thank you, when the operator has properly checked to determine why devices are not functioning and avoids calling for service to repair or replace a working device.

Before operating the unit, read the manual that was included in the box or download it from the manufacturer website. Otherwise, you may risk damaging the device or voiding the warranty.

PMCS - Preventive Maintenance Checks and Services
Cleaning is the most important step to keep your device working properly. Clean dirty brake rollers, feed rollers, pads, glass, shading plates with a manufacturer cleaning kit or isopropyl alcohol, a lint free cloth, and Q-tips. Also make sure that the paper path is clean and free of debris.

Depending on the condition of documents and environment, the equipment may require a periodic disassembly to fully clean debris, paper clips, staples, dust, etc. that may have worked its way into the insides of the mechanism. The debris can cause a motor to stop running and rollers and belts to jam. Use a shop-vac to vacuum whatever dirt or foreign objects that have worked their way inside the main and side covers. Generally, it is not recommended to blow the scanner out using a compressed can of air. The reason is that the compressed air leaves film on the glass, does not remove the dirt (just blows it around), may break seals and cold air could damage a hot sensor.

CDD (Charge-coupled device) Cameras and CIS (Contact Image Sensor Assembly) Reader
Upon disassembly, the cameras units on devices with CCD cameras should be cleaned. Care should be taken not to damage the cameras as they are usually quite expensive. Canon products are equipped with CIS reader assemblies with a LED light source and the reader assemblies should not be removed or disassembled to avoid damage.

Consumable Replacement
Separator pads and pick rollers should be replaced when worn or according to manufacturer schedule. Shading plates and glass should be inspected and replaced as required. Fluorescent lamps usually require replacement between 500 to 1000 hours of use according to manufacturer guide recommendations. Canon uses a LED light source that usually does not require periodic replacement.

The Scanner System
Systems include not only the scanning devices, but also the computer and operating system as well as the software. There is a tendency to think that problems are mechanical. This is not always the case. In order to resolve the troubles, users may require technical competency. A+ skills and practices should be employed to troubleshoot the system before a service call. The technician is hired to fix the hardware. It is not his job to diagnose computer systems. This is your job or the job your IT department.

Hardware Feed Issues and Poor Scan Quality
Feed issues and poor scan quality are usually corrected through cleaning and replacing worn consumables. Brake and pick rollers should be checked to ensue that they are properly installed. The paper path should also be inspected and any foreign objects removed.

Scanning Software
Common are issues with drivers not found or installed. Re-install the software or make sure that the driver is recognized. Outdated firmware may also cause the equipment to not operate properly. Install the latest firmware. But note installation of incorrect firmware in some cases could permanently damage the main control board. Also, recheck the scan settings to assure that they are set properly.

PC Computer and Operating System
You must assign each SCSI device a separate SCSI ID to avoid an ID conflict. USB and fire wire devices need proper privileges and security rights when connected to a network. The best method to check for problems with the operating system is to swap the computer with another that you know to be working properly.

Troubleshooting and Repair
You can find minor parts that you can fix without too much technical knowledge. For instance check for broken parts and the tension of springs and flat springs. A parts manual can help you identify a problem. Some companies provide diagnostic software. The Canon quma tool provides diagnostic checks of motors, sensors, solenoids and other essential parts.

If you do not have the technical ability, you can buy a service agreement for your scanner. The warranty covers the maintenance and repairs rather than risking a breakdown and costly time and material repairs. Another option is depot repair where you send the equipment to the repair facility which is less costly than on-site services. Some manufacturers only provide a 90 day warranty and the purchase of an extended warranty is recommended.

Aircraft Brake Maintenance and Repair

The first objective is to maintain the clearance between the moving and stationary parts of a brake in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Disassemble and inspect the brake periodically and examine the parts for wear, cracks, warpage, corrosion, elongated holes, etc. If any of these or other faults are indicated, repair, recondition, or replace the affected parts in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. Surface cracks on the friction surfaces of the brake drums occur frequently due to high surface temperatures. These surface cracks may be disregarded as seriously affecting the airworthiness until they become cracks of approximately 1 inch in length.

Hydraulic aircraft brakes

For proper hydraulic aircraft brake maintenance, periodically inspect the entire hydraulic system from the reservoir to the brakes. Maintain the fluid at the recommended level with proper brake fluid. When air is present in the brake system, bleed in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Replace flexible hydraulic hose which has deteriorated due to long periods of service and replace hydraulic piston seals when there is evidence of leakage. Service anti-skid units according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Mechanical aircraft brake maintenance.

Keep the working parts of mechanically operated brakes free from dirt and foreign matter so the brakes can work freely at all times. Slack in the linkage system must be kept to a minimum.

Hazards of aircraft brake maintenance and repair

Asbestos containing materials are a component of the brake systems in some light aircraft. It has been suggested there might be a danger of asbestos resulting from the installation and maintenance of these components, particularly if the brake changing process takes place in a closed, unventilated aircraft hanger. However, tests have shown that operations performed according to the manufacturer's recommended procedure, normal brake changing work practices on aircraft with asbestos containing brake pads, do not produce a harmful level of asbestos exposure for aircraft mechanics.

Basic Car Care & Maintenance : How to Test Car Lights

Test your car head lights and tail lights for functionality and to prevent problems; ; learn how from our expert mechanic in this free car-maintenance video. Expert: Jeff Wong Bio: Jeff Wong has a masters degree in Mechanical Engineering. He has owned & operated an aftermarket automotive parts business for five years. He has been working on automobiles for 17 years. Filmmaker: Joshua Kidwell

Auto Repair & Maintenance : How to Change Brake Pads

When changing brake pads on a car, make sure the car is jacked up, remove the bolts on the caliper and remove the brake pads. Replace brake pads in a car with help from an auto mechanic in this free video on car maintenance and repairs. Expert: Tom Brintzenhofe Bio: Tom Brintzenhofe has been a mechanic for the past 17 years. Filmmaker: Reel Media LLC