2007 Acura MDX in Milwaukee Brookfield, WI 53045 - SOLD

www.acurabrookfield.com SOLD - Ifyoure looking for real value on a great used car, Acura of Brookfield invites you to come in and test drive this 2007 Acura MDX. Were conveniently located near Milwaukee Brookfield, WI and known for our great selection, reliability and quality. Come take a look at this 2007 Acura MDX today. Acura of Brookfield 19180 W Bluemound Road Milwaukee Brookfield WI, 53045 (800) 639-2287 We look forward to serving you! ONE OWNER - This Acura Certified vehicle has undergone an extensive evaluation and reconditioning process completed by trained professionals. Our Certified vehicles also include all keys and remotes, w/wiper inserts, new floor mats, owners manual, radio and navi codes. Services and updates performed during the evaluation include: OIL AND FILTER, PERFORM SERVICE B23 MAINTENANCE, FLUSH BRAKE SYSTEM/INSTALL NEW FLUID, REPLACE REAR BRAKE PADS, REPLACE 4 TIRES

BMW DIY #8 E46 Rear Brake Job

Learn how to fix your E46 BMW 3-Series rear brakes!

How to Change brake pads! (more or less)

Some extra footage from today's vlog on Kazila's channel. youtube.com/user/kazila

HONDA ELITE FRONT DRUM BRAKES REPLACE AND ADJUST 2

Drum brakes work on a very simple principle. The brake arm is pulled by the cable, attached to the brake lever on the handlebar. This causes the brake pads to clamshell open and rub against the internal sides of the wheel brake drum. The wheel slows down or completely stops, depending on the pressure of the brake handle. Brake dust is caused by the friction of the drum against the Abestos brake pads. As the brakes wear, more brake dust accumulates in the brake drum area. Clean the area with soap and water along with all parts. Never use oil of any kind on the brake pads. NEVER.. Oily brake pads will cause the brakes to instantly stick to the drums, the moment they are applied. Brake-Kleen is an excellent pad cleaner. Spray it on and just let it drip off and it evaporates very fast like ether.

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The Basics of Classic Car Maintenance - Fluids

As a start we will consider petrol and diesel, apart from the obvious that you have enough for your journey it is worth checking the whole fuel system at least once a year, diesel because it has a habit of finding paths and holes that most other fluids don't and petrol because if it does leak, a hot surface or spark can cause an explosion, I know I have been there with leaky carburettors dripping onto the exhaust pipe.

First check the fuel tank, invariably in old cars it is made from pressed steel and is subject to corrosion especially where straps or fixings are. Give it a good look over for any bubbles or spots that look damp/dark and check to see if the fuel gauge moves much at regular intervals when the car is parked up. Next check the pipework, again many cars had steel pipes with later replacements being copper or plastic (plastic being particularly vulnerable from hot exhaust pipes as many manufactures ran the two pipes close to each other!)

Hopefully someone will have fitted a petrol filter under the bonnet to stop any debris or rust reaching and blocking the carburettors. Looking at this will help to indicate any corrosion from the tank and pipework that maybe present, so replace it following any repairs to these to give you a clean slate. For diesels the fuel filter will not be transparent but is likely to resemble an oil filter.

Also check the fuel pump for operation (easier if it is electric) by connecting an alternative outlet hose to a petrol can, caution here as you are combining electricity and flammable vapour, and see that the pump keeps running with the ignition on.

And finally with the ignition on/or engine started and switched off check the carburettor(s) for any damp/dark patches particularly around where the fuel pipes join the carbs. Alternatively check the injector pump and interconnecting pipework to and from the injectors on the cylinder head.

As standard advice it is always essential to check the cooling water level but there are other things to check for. It is worth noting that it is not so important if you over fill the cooling system as the water level should adjust itself and find a natural level. While you have the radiator or filler cap off the car it is worth considering the colour. Good clean cooling water should appear slightly green or blue from the anti-freeze and corrosion inhibitor.

If the water is brown this means that there is corrosion or rust in the system, a certain amount is to be expected as this happens as a matter of course. If the water is very cloudy or you are unsure it may be worth draining the water, flushing it through and refilling with new water and anti-freeze. This should be checked again after a few days or 50 miles or so to see if the problem has been rectified.

If the water has an oily sheen or rainbow this should be investigated further as it may be bad news. Sometimes it is just the natural oils from the various components that leach out when they are new, such as lubricants that are used in pumps or from sealants if used. However it maybe a signal that there is a more serious problem and the engine lubricating oil is getting into the cooling system and a major engine failure may not be too far away, hopefully your engine oil checks should help indicate this.

It is recommended that cooling water be changed yearly but I have found very couple of years is usually adequate due to the low mileage my classic cars do.

Engine lubricating oil is again essential to the running of the engine. It is important with this to make sure there is neither too much or too little. If there is too little the engine can get dry become damaged and even seize, if too much the oil can bubble and build up back pressure in the lower parts of the engine & eventually damage the crank shaft and pistons. For this reason it is very important that you make sure you have the right dipstick in your engine, even engines of the same type can have different dipsticks as they can vary in how they are constructed or how the oil circulates, check with your local club or specialist classic car garage.

Also if possible check that the right oil has been used as older engines or fast running engines require different thickness of oils and different care to modern engines.

Typical places for oil leaks on classic cars are
• The sump plug (bottom of the engine), if worn, improperly tightened or the copper washer on the plus has hardened over time. Sometimes the gasket will leak, usually symptoms of a bigger fault and sometimes the sump can be cracked, especially with cast steel or aluminum sumps.
• The rocker cover, if the gasket has hardened (often cork in older cars), over tightened or not fitted correctly. These leaks are usually straightforward to fix by fitting a new gasket.
• The rear end of the crankshaft (where the flywheel and clutch are fixed) because of worn seals (and it has to be said usually poor design from the manufacturers). This leak is very common do not panic unless you are losing a lot of oil or you are also having clutch trouble. The oil from this leak is handy for coating the underside of your car preventing rust, but you should aim to have the leak fixed.
• Oil filter, because of poor fitting, tired gaskets or just rattling loose. Again these leaks are straight forward to fix.

If your engine is leaking oil from other places it probably is not good news so check it out with a specialist. Another item relating to oil worth regular changes is the oil filler cap as these are often vented and contain wire mesh filters that can get dirty and allow over pressurisation of the oil system.

Things to look for in engine oil:
• If it has the consistency of treacle when cold its is overdue for an oil change
• If it appears very black, again time for a change of oil
• If it has lumps, a flush and oil change should be done as a minimum
• If it has a lot of white/brown goo or 'mayonnaise' then a change might be due, however it is also a symptom of a head gasket failure which allows the cooling water into the oil thus creating the 'mayonnaise'. Sometimes though small amounts of this can be formed through condensation if the car has been sat around for long periods.

Oil should be changed at the mileage intervals advised by the manufacturer, though if you are doing less miles each year then yearly is recommended. I usually change the filter every other oil change as well because I don't always know the service history of the engine from the past so there may be some debris from wear in the oil system.

Whilst on oils I will next go through gearbox lubricating oil including rear axle oil for rear wheel drive cars. This should not often require replacing or topping up unless you have a leak, and leaks on rear axles are very common although not usually big enough to concern you too much. Many classic cars provide additional access to reach filler plugs for gearboxes and axles to which the owners' manuals can point but may require the lifting of carpets and/or the rear seat. Another advantage is in some post war classic cars is that some gearboxes also have their own dipsticks, a feature that disappeared as gearboxes became more reliable.

Though the oils do not normally need regular changing it is always worth an annual level check or when you suspect a leak or gain a noise. It should be noted that differential whine from the rear axle is quite common and is often just wear and tear rather than lack of lubrication.

Certainly for the rear axle you may need a specialist sump plug spanner. Like the engine the gearbox and axle may require different oils depending on their age. Some older gearboxes are happy with engine oil and later gearboxes use specialist gear oil, also often used in hotter climates.

The contents of the oil are more difficult to check here especially with the available light but you can look for the following:
• If it has the consistency of treacle when cold its is overdue for an oil change
• If it has a lot white 'mayonnaise' then a change might be due, however it is also a symptom of condensation if the car has been sat around for long periods.
You may feel more comfortable changing the oil in any case so you know what you are starting with.

Brake fluid - now obviously you want to make sure you have enough of this so that you can stop when you need to but what many people miss is that brake fluid can degrade and separate causing corrosion to the brake components and loss of force at the wheels when you push the brake pedal.

It is well worth checking the brake fluid level on a 3 monthly basis to see that it has not changed much, apart from a level drop being a sign of worn brake pads/shoes a big level drop could be a sign of a leak. A level drop should be avoided because of the aforementioned but also because you may allow air into the system which reduces the effectiveness of the brakes as air compresses more readily than brake fluid.

When bleeding brakes the following things should be looked for:
• Bubbles, could be a sign of a leak that is allowing air in as well as fluid out
• Black colour, sign of various components corroding, particularly steel pipes
• Bits, again a sign of corrosion

When any of these occur it is advisable to check all the components and replace those identified as faulty. It is also worth keeping the bleeding process going until the defect(s) disappear as the contaminated brake fluid may still be in the retained parts.

Another problem with braking components is external corrosion which can wear pipes and make them leak or rust together which will require all the corroded components to be replaced. Here a bit of copper grease may keep it at bay, and if you have them try to maintain the rubber/plastic dirt caps on bleed nipples.

One of the weakest points on braking systems are the flexible hoses that connect the wheel brakes to allow suspension movement. Apart from perishing and splitting these can also suffer from laminating which makes the walls weaker and prone to expanding under pressure, therefore the force from the brake pedal gets used up in the pipes rather than the wheel cylinders or callipers. Often pipes with external metal braiding are available which reduces this risk, but these are only good whilst they are clean and not corroded.

Although the list above gives a general overview it should be enough to get you started and let you gain confidence carrying out your own maintenance and with time tackle more involved tasks replacing parts of the car.

Preventive Maintenance System

The Preventive Maintenance System is a series of service and repair
procedures performed at regularly scheduled intervals, to prolong the
life of your vehicle, and to minimize the chances of unexpected
breakdowns.

Why is the Preventive Maintenance System so important?

1. Ignoring the regular maintenance schedule will void the vehicle
manufacturer's warranty.

2. Maintenance doesn't cost a lot of money, unexpected repairs do!

3. It doesn't take a lot of time or inconvenience to do regular maintenance.

4. Many service facilities will do an oil change and fluids check while
you wait.

5. It's not a good feeling to know that your vehicle is not reliable. Regular maintenance makes the vehicle more dependable.

The preventive maintenance schedule is different for every vehicle. Some
vehicles are driven short distances, and not every day. Most vehicles are
driven in "stop and go" traffic for hours. Vehicle's manufacturers call this
"severe" service, and maintenance intervals for this type of driving are
much more frequent.

This website will give you basic guidelines for following your vehicle's
preventive maintenance schedule. You can't go wrong following these
simple recommendations, and adjusting the maintenance schedule
intervals in accordance with your type of driving.

The best source for the manufacturer's recommended maintenance
schedule for your particular vehicle, is the "Owner's Manual".

Contemporary cars and trucks should serve reliably for at least 200,000
miles. The key is the Preventive Maintenance System!

Let's take a look into the Preventive Maintenance System structure.

This system consist from:

1) routine inspections

2) regularly scheduled maintenance

3) scheduled replacements: brakes, timing belt, etc.

The Routine Inspections

The Inspections are a very important part of the Preventive Maintenance System.

There are two types of inspections to be done on your vehicle.

The first type -

is an inspection that you are probably doing right now and don't even realize it -
the visual inspection that you give youe vehicle every time you drive it...

You see your vehicle every day, and if you train your eye, you can spot the first
signs of trouble. You can save yourself a lot of money if you learn a few simple
inspection routines. Even if you know absolutely nothing about cars (how could
this be?), a simple inspection routine is very easy to learn.

First, let's examine the things that you can spot without any extra effort, such as
worn tires or fluid leaks. Bad tires are pretty obvious, and easy to spot - look
for the sag and bulge at the bottom of the tire that indicates dangerously low
air pressure. An under-inflated tire can cause loss of control of the vehicle!
Replacing a worn set of tires can save your life!

Fluid leaks are also easy to spot. After your vehicle is parked overnight, look
under the engine compartment, first thing in the morning. If you see a green
puddle, you've got a problem...
Look under the hood of your vehicle and see if there is a leaking radiator or
heater hose. If this is a case, don't start the engine - call for a tow truck. It may
cost you a little up front but you are saving the engine, and a lot of money!

Other checks are also easy to accomplish, you just have to make a little time
for them. About once a week - or each time you fill up the gas tank, if you put
a lot of miles on your vehicle - check the fluid levels. The most important check
you can perform is to keep an eye on your engine's oil level. A low oil level can
damage your engine! Keeping the oil at the proper level can save your engine
and save you a lot of money!

A low level of antifreeze can cause your engine to overheat - a surefire way to
destroy the engine! Also, the low level of antifreeze can indicate a more serious
problem - this is a reason to see a professional mechanic, to detect a potential
leak.

As you can see, you are the very first "line of defense" for your vehicle!

If you know how to replace a tire, you can inspect the front disc brakes yourself.
Remove the tire and look at the brake pads. Immediately next to the round brake
rotor, you will see a brake pad supported by a metal plate. There are two pads,
one on each side of the rotor. The thickness of a new pad is 3/8" (10mm).
If the brake pad thickness is less than 1/8" (3mm), it's time for a brake job.
Other important things to look for are excessive wear of the rear brake shoes
(if so equipped) and any evidence of leaking brake fluid.

While driving, keep an eye on your light and gauges. Know your light! If the "oil"
light comes on, pull over very carefully and shut the engine off immediately!
After waiting for a few minutes, check the engine's oil level, and add oil if needed,
before driving again, even if this means waiting until additional oil can be brought
to you!

If, while on the road, the temperature gauge needle jumps to the red zone - pull over
carefully and shut the engine off! Do not, I repeat, DO NOT try to remove the
radiator car right away! A very serious burn can be the result! Look at the
transparent reservoir for the antifreeze level ( the label on the reservoir's cap
typically says: Engine coolant only!) Remove the capfrom the reservoir if necessary,
and check if coolant is present inside. Add antifreeze or water if needed.

It's very tempting to drive the vehicle that last mile to a gas station by yourself,
to save the towing charge, but it makes no sense to destroy a $1500 engine (plus
labor cost and time without the car) to avoid a $75 tow charge!
The "oil" light and the temperature gauge are designed to be a warning for you -
to save your engine from destruction, and save yourself a lot of money!

The second type of inspection -
is the type done by professional mechanics.

At every oil change, ask the mechanic to look over the bottom of your vehicle
for leaks, broken axle and power steering boots. and to check the condition
of belts and tires. It's not going to cost a lot of additional money, but it can provide
you with very important information about your car's condition, every 3,000 miles.

All four tires should be balanced and rotated every 5,000 miles.

Balancing means that tires should be removed from the vehicle, and put on a
special computer controlled machine, that spins each tire to a speed of approximately
65 miles per hour, and then shows the technician the precise position to attach
special weights, to eliminate vibration.

Rotation means that tires that were in the front of your vehicle will be moved to the
rear, and vice versa.

This is also a good time to inspect your brakes or by yourself, or ask the technician
to do so. If the technician detects a problem, this is a good reason for a visit to a
repair shop.

You will then know condition of your brakes, every 5,000 miles.

1) The quick inspections done by yourself:

a) Leaks (oil, antifreeze - every day)

b) Once a week, under the hood (belts, hoses)

2) At every oil change (check for leaks under the car, tire condition and air pressure)

3) At every balancing and rotation of tires, the inspection of the tires and brakes will

give you a pretty good idea about their condition.

In short, if you are driving about 1000 miles per month, inspecting for leaks under the
vehicle will be done every 3rd month, and checking the condition of tires and brakes
will be done every 5th month. And you have to look your vehicle over for flat or under
inflated tires and visible leaks under the vehicle, every day or every other day.

That's all it takes!