Thursday 30 September 2010

2007 Acura MDX in Milwaukee Brookfield, WI 53045 - SOLD

www.acurabrookfield.com SOLD - Ifyoure looking for real value on a great used car, Acura of Brookfield invites you to come in and test drive this 2007 Acura MDX. Were conveniently located near Milwaukee Brookfield, WI and known for our great selection, reliability and quality. Come take a look at this 2007 Acura MDX today. Acura of Brookfield 19180 W Bluemound Road Milwaukee Brookfield WI, 53045 (800) 639-2287 We look forward to serving you! ONE OWNER - This Acura Certified vehicle has undergone an extensive evaluation and reconditioning process completed by trained professionals. Our Certified vehicles also include all keys and remotes, w/wiper inserts, new floor mats, owners manual, radio and navi codes. Services and updates performed during the evaluation include: OIL AND FILTER, PERFORM SERVICE B23 MAINTENANCE, FLUSH BRAKE SYSTEM/INSTALL NEW FLUID, REPLACE REAR BRAKE PADS, REPLACE 4 TIRES

Wednesday 29 September 2010

BMW DIY #8 E46 Rear Brake Job

Learn how to fix your E46 BMW 3-Series rear brakes!

Tuesday 28 September 2010

How to Change brake pads! (more or less)

Some extra footage from today's vlog on Kazila's channel. youtube.com/user/kazila

Sunday 26 September 2010

HONDA ELITE FRONT DRUM BRAKES REPLACE AND ADJUST 2

Drum brakes work on a very simple principle. The brake arm is pulled by the cable, attached to the brake lever on the handlebar. This causes the brake pads to clamshell open and rub against the internal sides of the wheel brake drum. The wheel slows down or completely stops, depending on the pressure of the brake handle. Brake dust is caused by the friction of the drum against the Abestos brake pads. As the brakes wear, more brake dust accumulates in the brake drum area. Clean the area with soap and water along with all parts. Never use oil of any kind on the brake pads. NEVER.. Oily brake pads will cause the brakes to instantly stick to the drums, the moment they are applied. Brake-Kleen is an excellent pad cleaner. Spray it on and just let it drip off and it evaporates very fast like ether.

Friday 24 September 2010

Call: 714-375-2663 | Volvo Auto Repair Riverside | Volkswagen Exhaust Repair

wwww.franciscosautorepair.com Call 714-375-2663 | Auto Repair Riverside | Toyota Exhaust Repair wwww.franciscosautorepair.com Franciscos Automotive Repair in Huntington Beach 7662 Slater Avenue Huntington Beach, CA 92647 Call Us 714-375-2663 Call Us: 714-375-2663 for all your auto repair needs. We offer complete automotive services for Riverside and Orange COunty cities. 25 Years + Years experience. Drive to our Huntington Beach Shop and get our 3 YEAR 36000 Mile Warranty. If you are a car owner than you need Franciscos Auto Repair Shop to be your auto repair mechanic for all your cars, trucks, suv's, rv's, vans, foreign and domestic vehicles. We offer FREE Rides, Loaner Cars Available, Free Top Off of all Fliuds ecept Gas:) and a Free Car Wash. And We give youa 3 Year 36000 Mile warranty to offer you that sense of our no nonsense 3 Year 36000 Mile Warranty. In these times, you cannot afford to get your car repaired anywhere than your "Dealership Auto Repair Alternative" which is Franciscos Auto Repair in Huntington Beach. Drive to us and spend the day the beach or just tour our beautiful Surf City. We won't leave you without your well deserved and earned 3 Year 36000 Mile Warranty. Call with all your auto repair questions: 714-375-2663 or visit our website at: www.franciscosautorepair.com * Automobile Air Conditioning repair and service - Basic service includes recharging, dye leak checks to component replacement as needed for proper air conditioning operation ...

Wednesday 22 September 2010

The Basics of Classic Car Maintenance - Fluids

As a start we will consider petrol and diesel, apart from the obvious that you have enough for your journey it is worth checking the whole fuel system at least once a year, diesel because it has a habit of finding paths and holes that most other fluids don't and petrol because if it does leak, a hot surface or spark can cause an explosion, I know I have been there with leaky carburettors dripping onto the exhaust pipe.

First check the fuel tank, invariably in old cars it is made from pressed steel and is subject to corrosion especially where straps or fixings are. Give it a good look over for any bubbles or spots that look damp/dark and check to see if the fuel gauge moves much at regular intervals when the car is parked up. Next check the pipework, again many cars had steel pipes with later replacements being copper or plastic (plastic being particularly vulnerable from hot exhaust pipes as many manufactures ran the two pipes close to each other!)

Hopefully someone will have fitted a petrol filter under the bonnet to stop any debris or rust reaching and blocking the carburettors. Looking at this will help to indicate any corrosion from the tank and pipework that maybe present, so replace it following any repairs to these to give you a clean slate. For diesels the fuel filter will not be transparent but is likely to resemble an oil filter.

Also check the fuel pump for operation (easier if it is electric) by connecting an alternative outlet hose to a petrol can, caution here as you are combining electricity and flammable vapour, and see that the pump keeps running with the ignition on.

And finally with the ignition on/or engine started and switched off check the carburettor(s) for any damp/dark patches particularly around where the fuel pipes join the carbs. Alternatively check the injector pump and interconnecting pipework to and from the injectors on the cylinder head.

As standard advice it is always essential to check the cooling water level but there are other things to check for. It is worth noting that it is not so important if you over fill the cooling system as the water level should adjust itself and find a natural level. While you have the radiator or filler cap off the car it is worth considering the colour. Good clean cooling water should appear slightly green or blue from the anti-freeze and corrosion inhibitor.

If the water is brown this means that there is corrosion or rust in the system, a certain amount is to be expected as this happens as a matter of course. If the water is very cloudy or you are unsure it may be worth draining the water, flushing it through and refilling with new water and anti-freeze. This should be checked again after a few days or 50 miles or so to see if the problem has been rectified.

If the water has an oily sheen or rainbow this should be investigated further as it may be bad news. Sometimes it is just the natural oils from the various components that leach out when they are new, such as lubricants that are used in pumps or from sealants if used. However it maybe a signal that there is a more serious problem and the engine lubricating oil is getting into the cooling system and a major engine failure may not be too far away, hopefully your engine oil checks should help indicate this.

It is recommended that cooling water be changed yearly but I have found very couple of years is usually adequate due to the low mileage my classic cars do.

Engine lubricating oil is again essential to the running of the engine. It is important with this to make sure there is neither too much or too little. If there is too little the engine can get dry become damaged and even seize, if too much the oil can bubble and build up back pressure in the lower parts of the engine & eventually damage the crank shaft and pistons. For this reason it is very important that you make sure you have the right dipstick in your engine, even engines of the same type can have different dipsticks as they can vary in how they are constructed or how the oil circulates, check with your local club or specialist classic car garage.

Also if possible check that the right oil has been used as older engines or fast running engines require different thickness of oils and different care to modern engines.

Typical places for oil leaks on classic cars are
• The sump plug (bottom of the engine), if worn, improperly tightened or the copper washer on the plus has hardened over time. Sometimes the gasket will leak, usually symptoms of a bigger fault and sometimes the sump can be cracked, especially with cast steel or aluminum sumps.
• The rocker cover, if the gasket has hardened (often cork in older cars), over tightened or not fitted correctly. These leaks are usually straightforward to fix by fitting a new gasket.
• The rear end of the crankshaft (where the flywheel and clutch are fixed) because of worn seals (and it has to be said usually poor design from the manufacturers). This leak is very common do not panic unless you are losing a lot of oil or you are also having clutch trouble. The oil from this leak is handy for coating the underside of your car preventing rust, but you should aim to have the leak fixed.
• Oil filter, because of poor fitting, tired gaskets or just rattling loose. Again these leaks are straight forward to fix.

If your engine is leaking oil from other places it probably is not good news so check it out with a specialist. Another item relating to oil worth regular changes is the oil filler cap as these are often vented and contain wire mesh filters that can get dirty and allow over pressurisation of the oil system.

Things to look for in engine oil:
• If it has the consistency of treacle when cold its is overdue for an oil change
• If it appears very black, again time for a change of oil
• If it has lumps, a flush and oil change should be done as a minimum
• If it has a lot of white/brown goo or 'mayonnaise' then a change might be due, however it is also a symptom of a head gasket failure which allows the cooling water into the oil thus creating the 'mayonnaise'. Sometimes though small amounts of this can be formed through condensation if the car has been sat around for long periods.

Oil should be changed at the mileage intervals advised by the manufacturer, though if you are doing less miles each year then yearly is recommended. I usually change the filter every other oil change as well because I don't always know the service history of the engine from the past so there may be some debris from wear in the oil system.

Whilst on oils I will next go through gearbox lubricating oil including rear axle oil for rear wheel drive cars. This should not often require replacing or topping up unless you have a leak, and leaks on rear axles are very common although not usually big enough to concern you too much. Many classic cars provide additional access to reach filler plugs for gearboxes and axles to which the owners' manuals can point but may require the lifting of carpets and/or the rear seat. Another advantage is in some post war classic cars is that some gearboxes also have their own dipsticks, a feature that disappeared as gearboxes became more reliable.

Though the oils do not normally need regular changing it is always worth an annual level check or when you suspect a leak or gain a noise. It should be noted that differential whine from the rear axle is quite common and is often just wear and tear rather than lack of lubrication.

Certainly for the rear axle you may need a specialist sump plug spanner. Like the engine the gearbox and axle may require different oils depending on their age. Some older gearboxes are happy with engine oil and later gearboxes use specialist gear oil, also often used in hotter climates.

The contents of the oil are more difficult to check here especially with the available light but you can look for the following:
• If it has the consistency of treacle when cold its is overdue for an oil change
• If it has a lot white 'mayonnaise' then a change might be due, however it is also a symptom of condensation if the car has been sat around for long periods.
You may feel more comfortable changing the oil in any case so you know what you are starting with.

Brake fluid - now obviously you want to make sure you have enough of this so that you can stop when you need to but what many people miss is that brake fluid can degrade and separate causing corrosion to the brake components and loss of force at the wheels when you push the brake pedal.

It is well worth checking the brake fluid level on a 3 monthly basis to see that it has not changed much, apart from a level drop being a sign of worn brake pads/shoes a big level drop could be a sign of a leak. A level drop should be avoided because of the aforementioned but also because you may allow air into the system which reduces the effectiveness of the brakes as air compresses more readily than brake fluid.

When bleeding brakes the following things should be looked for:
• Bubbles, could be a sign of a leak that is allowing air in as well as fluid out
• Black colour, sign of various components corroding, particularly steel pipes
• Bits, again a sign of corrosion

When any of these occur it is advisable to check all the components and replace those identified as faulty. It is also worth keeping the bleeding process going until the defect(s) disappear as the contaminated brake fluid may still be in the retained parts.

Another problem with braking components is external corrosion which can wear pipes and make them leak or rust together which will require all the corroded components to be replaced. Here a bit of copper grease may keep it at bay, and if you have them try to maintain the rubber/plastic dirt caps on bleed nipples.

One of the weakest points on braking systems are the flexible hoses that connect the wheel brakes to allow suspension movement. Apart from perishing and splitting these can also suffer from laminating which makes the walls weaker and prone to expanding under pressure, therefore the force from the brake pedal gets used up in the pipes rather than the wheel cylinders or callipers. Often pipes with external metal braiding are available which reduces this risk, but these are only good whilst they are clean and not corroded.

Although the list above gives a general overview it should be enough to get you started and let you gain confidence carrying out your own maintenance and with time tackle more involved tasks replacing parts of the car.

Tuesday 21 September 2010

Preventive Maintenance System

The Preventive Maintenance System is a series of service and repair
procedures performed at regularly scheduled intervals, to prolong the
life of your vehicle, and to minimize the chances of unexpected
breakdowns.

Why is the Preventive Maintenance System so important?

1. Ignoring the regular maintenance schedule will void the vehicle
manufacturer's warranty.

2. Maintenance doesn't cost a lot of money, unexpected repairs do!

3. It doesn't take a lot of time or inconvenience to do regular maintenance.

4. Many service facilities will do an oil change and fluids check while
you wait.

5. It's not a good feeling to know that your vehicle is not reliable. Regular maintenance makes the vehicle more dependable.

The preventive maintenance schedule is different for every vehicle. Some
vehicles are driven short distances, and not every day. Most vehicles are
driven in "stop and go" traffic for hours. Vehicle's manufacturers call this
"severe" service, and maintenance intervals for this type of driving are
much more frequent.

This website will give you basic guidelines for following your vehicle's
preventive maintenance schedule. You can't go wrong following these
simple recommendations, and adjusting the maintenance schedule
intervals in accordance with your type of driving.

The best source for the manufacturer's recommended maintenance
schedule for your particular vehicle, is the "Owner's Manual".

Contemporary cars and trucks should serve reliably for at least 200,000
miles. The key is the Preventive Maintenance System!

Let's take a look into the Preventive Maintenance System structure.

This system consist from:

1) routine inspections

2) regularly scheduled maintenance

3) scheduled replacements: brakes, timing belt, etc.

The Routine Inspections

The Inspections are a very important part of the Preventive Maintenance System.

There are two types of inspections to be done on your vehicle.

The first type -

is an inspection that you are probably doing right now and don't even realize it -
the visual inspection that you give youe vehicle every time you drive it...

You see your vehicle every day, and if you train your eye, you can spot the first
signs of trouble. You can save yourself a lot of money if you learn a few simple
inspection routines. Even if you know absolutely nothing about cars (how could
this be?), a simple inspection routine is very easy to learn.

First, let's examine the things that you can spot without any extra effort, such as
worn tires or fluid leaks. Bad tires are pretty obvious, and easy to spot - look
for the sag and bulge at the bottom of the tire that indicates dangerously low
air pressure. An under-inflated tire can cause loss of control of the vehicle!
Replacing a worn set of tires can save your life!

Fluid leaks are also easy to spot. After your vehicle is parked overnight, look
under the engine compartment, first thing in the morning. If you see a green
puddle, you've got a problem...
Look under the hood of your vehicle and see if there is a leaking radiator or
heater hose. If this is a case, don't start the engine - call for a tow truck. It may
cost you a little up front but you are saving the engine, and a lot of money!

Other checks are also easy to accomplish, you just have to make a little time
for them. About once a week - or each time you fill up the gas tank, if you put
a lot of miles on your vehicle - check the fluid levels. The most important check
you can perform is to keep an eye on your engine's oil level. A low oil level can
damage your engine! Keeping the oil at the proper level can save your engine
and save you a lot of money!

A low level of antifreeze can cause your engine to overheat - a surefire way to
destroy the engine! Also, the low level of antifreeze can indicate a more serious
problem - this is a reason to see a professional mechanic, to detect a potential
leak.

As you can see, you are the very first "line of defense" for your vehicle!

If you know how to replace a tire, you can inspect the front disc brakes yourself.
Remove the tire and look at the brake pads. Immediately next to the round brake
rotor, you will see a brake pad supported by a metal plate. There are two pads,
one on each side of the rotor. The thickness of a new pad is 3/8" (10mm).
If the brake pad thickness is less than 1/8" (3mm), it's time for a brake job.
Other important things to look for are excessive wear of the rear brake shoes
(if so equipped) and any evidence of leaking brake fluid.

While driving, keep an eye on your light and gauges. Know your light! If the "oil"
light comes on, pull over very carefully and shut the engine off immediately!
After waiting for a few minutes, check the engine's oil level, and add oil if needed,
before driving again, even if this means waiting until additional oil can be brought
to you!

If, while on the road, the temperature gauge needle jumps to the red zone - pull over
carefully and shut the engine off! Do not, I repeat, DO NOT try to remove the
radiator car right away! A very serious burn can be the result! Look at the
transparent reservoir for the antifreeze level ( the label on the reservoir's cap
typically says: Engine coolant only!) Remove the capfrom the reservoir if necessary,
and check if coolant is present inside. Add antifreeze or water if needed.

It's very tempting to drive the vehicle that last mile to a gas station by yourself,
to save the towing charge, but it makes no sense to destroy a $1500 engine (plus
labor cost and time without the car) to avoid a $75 tow charge!
The "oil" light and the temperature gauge are designed to be a warning for you -
to save your engine from destruction, and save yourself a lot of money!

The second type of inspection -
is the type done by professional mechanics.

At every oil change, ask the mechanic to look over the bottom of your vehicle
for leaks, broken axle and power steering boots. and to check the condition
of belts and tires. It's not going to cost a lot of additional money, but it can provide
you with very important information about your car's condition, every 3,000 miles.

All four tires should be balanced and rotated every 5,000 miles.

Balancing means that tires should be removed from the vehicle, and put on a
special computer controlled machine, that spins each tire to a speed of approximately
65 miles per hour, and then shows the technician the precise position to attach
special weights, to eliminate vibration.

Rotation means that tires that were in the front of your vehicle will be moved to the
rear, and vice versa.

This is also a good time to inspect your brakes or by yourself, or ask the technician
to do so. If the technician detects a problem, this is a good reason for a visit to a
repair shop.

You will then know condition of your brakes, every 5,000 miles.

1) The quick inspections done by yourself:

a) Leaks (oil, antifreeze - every day)

b) Once a week, under the hood (belts, hoses)

2) At every oil change (check for leaks under the car, tire condition and air pressure)

3) At every balancing and rotation of tires, the inspection of the tires and brakes will

give you a pretty good idea about their condition.

In short, if you are driving about 1000 miles per month, inspecting for leaks under the
vehicle will be done every 3rd month, and checking the condition of tires and brakes
will be done every 5th month. And you have to look your vehicle over for flat or under
inflated tires and visible leaks under the vehicle, every day or every other day.

That's all it takes!

Monday 20 September 2010

The OEM Versus Aftermarket Car Parts Debate

If you want to get mechanics and people who work on their own cars going in a heated debate, start an argument about whether aftermarket car parts are as good as OEM parts. It may seem like a basic argument, but it is actually fairly convoluted.

Okay, what are OEM parts? "OEM" stands for "original equipment manufacturer". In practical terms, this means the party that made the original part for your car be it the muffler, bumper, clutch or whatever. Isn't this part just the car company selling the car be it Ford, BMW or whomever? Nope. Most car companies outsource much of the car part manufacturing to smaller companies.

This outsourcing is why the bankruptcies of General Motors and Chrysler have such far reaching impacts. Not only does it impact everyone at those companies, but everyone at each independent company that makes parts for GM and Chrysler. If these independent companies lose enough business, they may have to shut down. This is problematic since they also make parts for other brands. This is also why the idea that a Ford is "American made" and a Toyota isn't is mostly hogwash. All the brands are getting a lot of their parts from the same suppliers whether they are in the United States, Canada, Mexico or wherever.

Aftermarket car parts come in two variations. The first is simply a generic form of the OEM part, much like generic pharmaceuticals compared to name brands. The second is an accessory for a car such as cold air intake systems for the engine, racks to carry bikes and so on. There isn't much debate that this second form of aftermarket car parts is fine, but the first variation is the area where contention starts.

OEM parts are almost always more expensive than aftermarket car parts. That being said, the price difference often isn't that large in many cases. This is important because OEM parts are generally better for your car than aftermarket parts. The issue is not the manufacturing process of the aftermarket car supplier, but the simply fact that the OEM part is made using the same molds and manufacturing process of the original part on your car. This means it should fit perfectly whereas the aftermarket part might not be an exact fit.

So, which should you go with? It depends. Aftermarket is definitely the choice when it comes to improving the performance on your car. If you are just looking for a part replacement, OEM parts are going to be slightly better although more expensive. Only you can decide if the price difference makes the aftermarket car parts a better deal.

Sunday 19 September 2010

Yamaha FZ6 Modifications to Consider - Part 2

Welcome to part 2 of my series about the different modifications that are available for the Yamaha FZ6 motorcycle. It seems like every time I turn around I find something new that can be done to my FZ6. In Part 1 of this series I discussed the aftermarket possibilities of upgraded exhaust, windscreens, and seats. In Part 2 I will give an overview of the options available for new grips, levers, and rear sets. In contrast to a powertrain modification, these are mostly aesthetic and comfort rather than performance enhancements. Let's get to it.

* Grips - There are a couple of reasons to consider getting new grips for the Yamaha FZ6. One reason is comfort. Some find that the grips on the FZ6 are too small and not comfortable enough for long rides. Increasing the size of the grips, for some, increases their comfort and puts less strain on the hands and wrist. In addition, there are grips that contain gel which will, for obvious reasons, increase grip comfort. Another reason to consider new grips is for their aesthetic value. The grips that come stock with the FZ6 are black and very nondescript. Many grips are available that have bright colors and logos that display brand loyalty among other things. Being one of the least expensive modifications, this would be a good one to consider if it is of any interest to you at all.

* Levers - The levers that come on the Yamaha FZ6 are pretty standard and similar to what you'd see on any other stock motorcycle. They are long, silver, and have a larger ball-looking end on them. They are fine for what they were designed for, but there is something to be gained by switching to after-market levers.. The same two reasons for replacing grips applies to levers. Changing grips can provide a comfort enhancement as well as an aesthetic enhancement. Additionally, though, some levers provide some added convenience features that make them easier to adjust than stock. Many after-market levers are a bit shorter than the stock versions and allow the use of two or three fingers for shifting and braking without the extra length of the lever pinching the remaining fingers. As riders get more advanced and confident with shifting and braking, shorter levers can be much more comfortable and easy to use. Aesthetically speaking, after-market levers are available in a variety of colors and styles that can be used to highlight or contrast the bike's color and design. Lastly, many levers come now with the ability to adjust lever position on-the-fly to account for brake fade and clutch adjustments. This can be a great help as compared with the stock levers that require more work to make the same adjustments. Some levers also include the ability to "fold" the levers near their pivot points. This can certainly come in handy if excessive pressure is applied to the ends of the levers. Rather than breaking something more critical, the lever simply "folds" up.

* Rearsets - Rearsets make up the rider's footpegs, shifting lever, and rear brake lever. I haven't seen as much about rearsets for the Yamaha FZ6 as I have other modifications, but they are out there and worth mentioning. Some of the reasons for replacing the rearsets are similar to the other modifications I've mentioned. There is comfort/usability and aesthetics. After-market rearsets typically have the ability to be adjusted forward, backward, up, and down. This is a definite advantage when seeking additional comfort and improved riding position. In addition to adjustability, after-market rearsets are typically of higher quality than original equipment. Many note that the shifting is much crisper and cleaner feeling, and braking is also more positive. Some drawbacks are that many rearset pegs are fixed, and therefore will not fold up in case of a crash, or anything catching on it. This could be detrimental to the mechanisms attached to the pegs if the force on them is great enough. Some rearsets that I really like the looks of are the Rizoma rearsets (pictured). One thing to note, though, is that they're built for the European FZ6 which doesn't have a built-in center stand like the U.S. version, and they interfere with each other. Slight modification is necessary to get them to fit properly.

Stay tuned to my Yamaha FZ6 Modifications to Consider series. We still have a number of items to cover:

* FE kit
* Mirrors
* Turn signals
* Brake lines
* Brake pads
* Frame Sliders
* Air Filter

Friday 17 September 2010

2005 FORD F-150

2005FORD F-150 Sanford FL 407-321-0660 For more information on this vehicle and our full inventory, call Bob Manbeck at 407-321-0660. Gibson Truck World 3455 South Orlando Drive Sanford, FL 32773 Don't pay more for a non-serviced, cheap imitation Gibson Truck World is the only dealer that gives a FREE 12 MONTH BUMPERTO BUMPER WARRANTY ALONG WITH 12 MONTHS FREE MAINTENANCE AND OUREXCLUSIVE 15 DAY RETURN POLICY, riding on 4 new tires, adjustable pedal, back up sensors, floor shift, Sony CD player, overhead storage, leather power seats, power sliding rear window, all your power options, wood grain trim, keyless entry, chrome nerf bars, roll on Tonneau cover, bed liner, towing package, The King Of Trucks!!! 407-321-0660 or toll free at 1-866-442-7667 AT GIBSON TRUCK WORLD, AN EDUCATED CONSUMER IS OUR BEST CUSTOMER Repair Description: 135 Point Inspection Lube Oil and Filter Replaced Air Filter Replaced Wiper Blades Replaced Master Power Window Switch Replaced Front and Rear Pads Turned Rotors Replaced Reverse Light Bulb Replaced Door Lock Actuator Replaced Right Hand Upper Ball Joint Alignment Total Invested = $861.58

Thursday 16 September 2010

Replacing BMW Brake Pads

Every automobile needs a functioning brakes. Brake and pads are responsible for clamping the brake rotors when the driver applies the brakes, and stopping the car as a result. These are important gears in all cars, including BMWs. Every BMW car has to be inspected for brake pads every 10,000 miles or so. Here are instructions how to keep your BMW brake pads in check:

Replacing the brake pads is probably one of the easiest maintenance tasks to do on your BMW. Once the inspection is done and the pads' material lining is already torn or worn down, it's time to replace your brakes including the pads. If an inspection is missed, a warning light will appear on the dashboard and once ignored, a devastating metal to metal friction may occur.

Things needed when replacing brakes and pads:
• New set of pads
• Screwdriver
• Socket set
• Floor jack and jack stands

It is important to park the BMW on a leveled flat surface. While parked, you can release the lug nuts and elevate the car with a jack on all four corners. If you are not sure what to do next, you can consult your mechanic or the owner's manual for the right jacking points. The next thing to do is to remove the wheels and spray on brake cleaner on the brakes and wipe them clean.

Next, take out the two caliper guide bolts that hold the brakes. Using a screwdriver, remove the larger spring on the outer caliper. You can easily slide off the caliper off the rotor in this manner. Take out the pad that is attached to the caliper piston by pulling the clip out that is fastened to the back of the pad. Do the same to the other brake pad. Remember that when replacing BMW brake pads, you have to replace both and not only one.

Condense the piston into the brake caliper to make room for the new brake pads over the rotor. BMW pistons can be compressed with a C-clamp. Place one pad against the piston and tighten the clamp. Next is the installation of the brake pads. Install it by pressing the clip on the back of the brake into the piston, place the other one on the caliper carrier and then slide the caliper back to the rotor. Make sure to tighten the installment of the two bolts that hold the caliper. Repeat this procedure to the other corners of the BMW and tighten the lug nuts that you loosened up in the beginning. To test out your new BMW brake pads, put pressure on the brake pedal until you feel that the brakes are compact once again.

Wednesday 15 September 2010

Should You Buy an SUV Or Not?

There are many factors one must take into consideration when making such a large purchase like an SUV. A lot of questions come to mind when you have to make a decision to plunk down at the very least 20K to buy a new one unless you care considering a used SUV it can be less. In this economy it's a must to really think about what you are getting with an SUV.

One of the first things you must ask yourself about buying an SUV is why and what am I using it for? Consider what SUVs are intended for: most have awd and some are made to go off road. Are you using this car as an urban commute car or around the city car? Do you live in the Mountains? In an area where there is a lot of snow in the winter? Do you work on a farm? Do you go skiing a lot?

If you are city person think about the costs of city driving and finding parking with a larger vehicle. Sure you can carry the kids around and go on big shopping trips but is it worth the cost of gas? The time wasted trying to find the right spot to street park. Probably not in the end even if you have a hybrid SUV.

In reality the SUV and the city don't mix and it's silly to think differently about it. What a waste not to use a vehicle for what it was made for! The perfect place for this type of car is the mountains. It is built perfectly for those type rural areas have to offer bad roads, bad weather, and plenty of off road driving to be had. The gas may cost you but you won't get stuck in the mud or snow with a good SUV.

You'll also feel a little safer if you happen to have a deer crash into you. If you ask these questions before purchasing an SUV and do your research you'll be able to make an informed decision about which car is right for you.

Tuesday 14 September 2010

10 Biggest Automotive Myths

Myth #1: When my brakes squeak it is probably caused by brake dust.

Fact: Brake Dust never causes squeaks.

Brake dust is a natural result of braking caused by the brake pad (or brake shoe) wearing against the rotor (or drum) as you brake. A fraction of the brake pad and rotor wear away with each stop, which is what forms brake dust.

Myth #2: Emission testing is not required where I live, why do I need a catalytic converter?

Fact: Catalytic Converters are required by Federal Law.

If your vehicle came with a catalytic converter on it when it was manufactured, it´s a good rule of thumb it still is required to have one. A catalytic converter is located in the exhaust pipe and its primary function is to remove any unburned air fuel mixture leftover from the combustion process. Besides the benefit of keeping the air cleaner, the catalytic converter is an important part of the information feedback your engine needs to run efficiently. A modern engine samples the exhaust stream to see how efficiently the engine is running and adjusts fuel and timing to compensate.

Myth #3: Cars are so reliable, "If it ain't broke don't fix it"

Fact: This strategy might work in the short term, but over the life of your vehicle it costs less to follow the recommended maintenance schedules.

The reason following the recommended service intervals is less expensive is when a part completely fails it often damages other related or connected parts. It is far better to replace a worn, but still working part, than to wait for the expense of complete failure. Oh, and did I mention parts almost always fail at the worst and most inconvenient times, and often result in a towing charge as well as repairs.

Myth #4: The higher the Octane rating the better the gasoline.

Fact: Use the lowest octane rated gasoline your vehicle manufacturer recommends. (lower octane fuels are less expensive)

Octane rating is defined as the resistance of fuels to detonation (engine knock, or engine ping.) Higher performance engines typically have higher compression ratios and are therefore more prone to detonation, so they require higher octane fuel. A lower performance engine will not generally perform better with high octane fuel, since the compression ratio is fixed by the engine design. If you notice "engine knock" during heavy accelerating such as a long hill or an on-ramp or when pulling a heavy load, change to the next higher octane rated gasoline.

Myth #5: You must have the dealer service your vehicle so you don´t void your warranty.

Fact: By law the dealer cannot require you to maintain or repair your vehicle at their facility.

Where-ever you choose to maintain or repair your vehicle, you must follow the recommended intervals for service the manufacturer requires as outlined in your owner´s manual during the warranty period.

Myth #6: Performance Mufflers are just for kids.

Fact: A free flowing performance Muffler can improve power and gas mileage.

One of the easiest ways to improve the efficiency of an engine is to reduce the restrictions in the exhaust exiting the engine. Larger exhaust pipe diameter and a performance muffler that reduces the restrictions on the exhaust system and lets the engine work easier, especially during heavy acceleration or towing. The benefits are better mileage, more power and reduced engine temperatures. One of the trade-offs is a gain in sound volume of the exhaust, most find this a benefit as well.

Myth #7: Gasoline additives like Techron will keep my engine clean.

Fact: These additives certainly help but the combustion process leaves deposits in your engine especially carbon on valves and injectors.

Each gallon of gasoline contains only a small quantity of these additives. Periodically your engine needs a thorough fuel system cleaning, especially the injectors and valves to remove these deposits and restore efficiency to your engine.

Myth #8: Restarting the engine uses more gas than idling.

Fact: It takes almost no additional fuel to restart a warm engine.

All the new hybrid vehicles are taking advantage of this and shutting down the engine at stop lights. Back when cars had carburetors and were hard to start or flooded regularly there may have been a grain of truth, but no longer.

Myth #9: Oil never wears out, just top it off once in a while.

Fact: Oil, like all other automotive fluids degrade with use and time.

Oil and its additives are designed not only to lubricate but to capture impurities and suspend them in the oil. Most of the bigger particulates are filtered out by the oil filter. It´s actually the additives that make modern oils so effective but also it´s the additives that break down. The dark color of used oil is the captured contaminates that dilute and degrade the oil. Draining the oil and changing the oil filter regularly is the single most effective maintenance you can do for your vehicle to ensure a long life.

Myth #10: Let the engine idle to warm up on cold days.

Fact: Engines run best at their design temperatures.

To get to the ideal temperature sooner, start the engine and drive at moderate speeds. Your engine will be okay, modern oils flow fine in cold weather.

Sunday 12 September 2010

DBA Tech Talk Video Episode 1 - Part 4 Fitting a brake disc rotor www.dba.com.au

www.dba.com.au Part 4 training video showing how to fit a DBA hat type disc brake rotor to a vehicle. Part of a series with training, tips and tricks showing how best to fit, remove or replace any stock, OEM or aftermarket disc brake rotor.

Saturday 11 September 2010

What You Need to Know About Transmission Fluid Changes

The transmission fluid is a very important part of your engine. Without the proper levels of transmission fluid in your car, you will experience all kinds of problems. Additionally, if the transmission fluid is not changed periodically, you will experience problems. Some people have come to believe that transmission fluid is something that never needs to be replaced. While it does not need to be changed as often as oil does, it is still very important to check and maintain clean fluids in your car.

The schedule by which to change your transmission fluid will differ between manual and automatic transmissions. Every 30,000 miles is a very good suggestion for all drivers regardless of whether they own an automatic, or manual. Those who are heavy manual transmission drivers are suggested to get a change every 15,000 miles. Intervals for automatic cars goes up as high as 100,000 miles between changes. There are reasons why you would want to change the transmission fluid more often than that. Because of the long length of this kind of fluid in automatic cars, some believe it never needs to be changed. This is incorrect and can lead to costly repairs.

The problem that you will run into with it is the build-up of metal particles. These particles will float through your engine and build up in different components causing you other kinds of problems. The money you saved on not changing the transmission fluid will seem like a drop in the bucket compared with the price of replacing the entire transmission later on. This can be avoided by simply changing the fluid regularly. Keep in mind, automatic transmissions run hotter than a manual does. For this reason, transmission fluid can actually be broken down over time. This will cause the fluid to not lubricate as well which will lead to mechanical problems.

Those thinking about changing their own transmission fluid may want to reconsider as it is not as simple as an oil change. With regular oil, you can utilize gravity to easily drain the car of any oil it contains. It is much more viscous and requires a transmission flusher to get everything out. It is recommended to bring in your car to get this kind of fluid change in order to make sure all metal shavings in the old fluid will be washed away. Not removing all of the fluid can cause you just as many problems as if you did nothing.

Those looking to check the levels between maintenance visits simply need to know what they are looking for. Keep in mind, most manual engines will not come with a dipstick to help you check the fluid level. Those with an automatic transmission will want to either have their mechanic point out the right dipstick, or check the owner's manual. Many will confuse the crankcase dipstick with that of the transmission. Keep in mind, generally the only reason why the fluid level will be low is if there is a leak. If you check your level and it is low, you need to get your mechanic to check out the transmission right away.

Thursday 9 September 2010

Wednesday 8 September 2010

Mercedes-Benz Parts in the Aftermarket

Traditionally, finding a source for OEM and aftermarket Mercedes parts meant having to live in or close to a large city like Los Angeles, and flipping through the phonebook to find a licensed Mercedes parts dealer. However, the power of the internet allows for the luxury of finding Mercedes parts and accessories from the comfort of your own home. Whether you are shopping for Mercedes accessories to upgrade your interior or exterior, or repair parts to replace your Mercedes wheels or those squeaky brakes, finding your parts is no longer like pulling teeth! Online Mercedes parts distributors tend to carry an impressive line of quality manufacturers, including Genuine Mercedes-Benz, Bosch, MP Design, Bilstein, GAP, Schatz, and H&R to name a few, so finding quality Mercedes accessories is never difficult.

Mercedes interior accessories come from a number of high quality designers. MP Design is known for its classy Mercedes interior accessories such as front seat adjustment covers, pillar covers and front door speaker covers. Genuine Mercedes-Benz, Lloyd, and Husky, each carry a line of high quality Mercedes floor mats.

As for exterior accessories, Schatz is known for its quality bumper grilles and spoilers. Genuine Mercedes-Benz and Coverking both carry a line of high quality Mercedes Car Covers. Genuine Mercedes-Benz offers that OEM look and feel whereas Coverking is known for it's its high level of customization. Expression and Lorinser both have an entire line of Mercedes Body Kits to take your Mercedes experience to a new level.

Finding replacement Mercedes-Benz parts can seem effortless thanks to the numerous Mercedes parts manufacturers like Bilstein, Bosch, and Hella. Likewise, Genuine Mercedes-Benz manufactures a number of OEM Mercedes-Benz parts. Whether you're shopping for Mercedes-Benz wheels or Mercedes wheel spacers, AMG, Lorinser, and Genuine Mercedes-Benz each carry a line of quality Mercedes-Benz wheels and wheel spacers.

While shopping for Mercedes parts online is often confusing given the lack of visual application of the product, companies like Performance Products have online animated Mercedes parts diagrams that make choosing replacement parts a much less daunting task. With parts diagrams you can see how your chosen Mercedes engine part fits into your Mercedes engine, or how your chosen Mercedes brake pad fits up against your rotor. Parts diagrams take some of the uneasiness out of shopping for parts shopping by providing the visual comfort generally associated with a brick and mortar store.

Tuesday 7 September 2010

Monday 6 September 2010

Checklist For Dirt Bike Parts

All motorcycles are vulnerable to some wear and tear, depending on the conditions in which they are used. Dirt bikes are built to be durable and to take some punishment, but they too, sometimes need parts replacements. It's important to conduct regular routine checks on parts to ensure that your bike is always in good running shape.

Regular Parts Checks  

1.      Bearings. To check bearings, you need to put your bike on a stand with the front wheel off the ground. Then try and move the forks. If there is movement besides the normal suspension travel, there is a good chance that you should replace the bearings.  

2.      Engine. First start up your bike. If you have a two stroke engine, listen for any odd sounds. If you hear slapping or snapping sounds, the piston may be worn and might need to be replaced. If your bike has a four stroke engine listen to the top of the engine motor for rhythmic noises, and make sure that there aren't any rumbling or growling sounds coming from the bottom of the engine.  

3.      Brake pads. Many different types of materials and chemicals can become embedded in brake pads, which could lead to the pads deteriorating. You should find out from your dealer or bike manufacturer how often they recommend replacing the brake pads. Often, just looking at the brake pads isn't a good enough determining factor.  

4.      Tires. This is very important, especially if you enjoy giving your bike a workout on very rough terrain. You should check the tread on the tires after every ride to make sure they are not smooth. Give extra attention to the front tire. Depending on how harsh the trails are, tires can actually lose their traction on as little as one ride.  

5.      Other. Always remember to regularly check parts like cables, linkage bearings, throttle, axles, chain and sprockets, and replace them when needed. Also try to keep the engine clean and well-lubed.   Checking over your parts on a regular basis will help keep your bike healthy and on the trails-it can be depressing when your bike gets laid up for a time from something that was preventable.

Saturday 4 September 2010

Maintaining, Changing VW Brake Parts

Maintaining and changing brakes on your own VW vehicle is not as hard as you may think. But, keep in mind that when you change your own brake pads, there are some other aspects that should be checked also to ensure that your brake pads are safe and dependable. If the brake pads or brake shoes are worn and need to be replaced, chances are other VW brake parts in the brake system may require attention too. The most obvious ones would be the brake rotors or drums and brake calipers or wheel cylinders. Both the front and rear brakes should be inspected.

A quality brake job should cover everything from the brake master cylinder where you add the brake fluid, to the calipers and wheel cylinders.

Changing the brakes include inspecting all the mechanical, hydraulic, and electrical components in both the front and rear brakes. If necessary, replace the front and rear brake pads. Then, inspect or replace brake rotors or disks.

Brake rotors require a clean, smooth, flat surface on the rotors. Otherwise your brake performance will suffer. A rough surface will accelerate pad wear. It will also increase the risk of noise. An uneven surface or variations in rotor thickness can cause vibrations, noise and annoying brake pedal pulsations. Brake drums that have grooves or any kind of damage should be replaced immediately. Sometimes, you cannot do all auto work by yourself. Your local auto parts store can help you turn the rotors for these discs to have extra life so you do not have to buy new.

The next thing to do is to check the level and condition of your brake fluid. Changing the fluid is recommended to get rid of moisture contamination. Always follow vehicle manufacturer's recommendations.

Changing the brake pads is the next step. Remember that there are books at your local auto parts store, on eBay, and at any bookstore that you can also buy. These will give you step by step instructions along with picture illustrations as to how to change and maintain brake pads.

First off you need to purchase break pads, which are available from any local auto parts store. You can also purchase the pads from a dealer but they run a lot more than the local auto parts store. There are many different brands of brake pads but what you have to put on my vehicle are the ones that are considered lifetime. These run a little more, but the cost covers itself in the long run. The next time you do a break job you take the lifetime ones back in and they exchange them free of charge.

Do not hurry up. Take your time in familiarizing yourself with the brakes on your car before you begin work. It is also a good idea to work on one side at a time in case you have trouble. In that way, you have one side to use as a reference. Remember that your front brakes provide most of the stopping power for your vehicle.

Changing the front brake pads require setting of your parking brake, and block the rear tires so your vehicle will not move. Loosen the lug nuts. Using a jack, raise your vehicle and place it securely on jack stands. Then, remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel.

Now you can see the brake calipers holding the brake pads against the rotors. There are 2 pads in each wheel that squeeze the rotor. Unbolt the caliper mounting bolts and pull the caliper back from the rotor. Be careful not to bend or break the brake hose. Sometimes the caliper mounting bolts require you to use a Torx or Star bit instead of a normal socket set. These can also be purchased at your local auto parts store and an employee will help you to purchase the size that is just right for your VW vehicle. Plan ahead and make sure you have the right tools for the job to save you a trip back to the auto parts store.

After you remove the caliper, remove the front brake pad and leave the rear pad in place. Using a C-clamp, compress the caliper piston into the caliper housing. Make sure you remove the cap off the brake reservoir before you do this. This needs to be done so that when you put the new pads in the caliper, it will create a space to put the caliper back on.

Examine the break pads for unusual or uneven wear. These could be signs of a problem that need to be taken care of immediately.

While doing this, it is also a good time to examine the condition of the rotors. You will need to get the rotors turned or replaced if they have deep groves or if you have noticed that the car shudders when you hit the brakes.

Install the new pads in the caliper. Usually it is best to place the inner pad first, then the outer pad second. Before you install the pads back on to the caliper, make sure the piston is fully depressed. Once the pads are properly seated in the caliper, put the caliper back on the rotor and bolt it firmly in place.

If everything is correct, then you can put the wheel back on, hand tighten the lug nuts, and lower the car to the ground. Finish tightening the lug nuts in a start pattern so that they are even.

The last thing to do in doing a brake job is to test the brakes. Carefully check your brakes and brake fluid levels before entering traffic. Sometimes some air can get into the brake lines when you change the brake pads. If this happens, you will need to bleed the brakes before you try to move the car again.

Friday 3 September 2010

GSX-R 750 K6 600 Paddock Stand for Superbikes by Bursig.com

Paddock racing Stand for many Bikes GSXR ZXR CBR YZF R1 R6 600 750 1000 KTM Suzuki Honda Kawasaki Yamaha look www.Bursig.com

Thursday 2 September 2010

2007 Acura TL #12662 in Milwaukee Brookfield, WI Used New

www.acurabrookfield.com SOLD - Ifyou are looking for real value on a great used car, Acura Dealer invites you to come in and test drive this 2007 Acura TL, stock# 12662. We are conveniently located near Milwaukee Brookfield, WI and known for our great selection, reliability and quality. Come take a look at this 2007 Acura TL today. Acura Dealer 19180 W Bluemound Road Milwaukee Brookfield WI, Used New Video (800) 639-2287 Acura of Brookfield is a premiere Acura Dealer featuring a great selection of New, Used, and Certified Pre-Owned Acura Cars, Trucks, and SUVs. Acura of Brookfield is conveniently located in Brookfield, WI and services the surrounding communities, such as; Milwaukee, Waukesha, Shorewood, Glendale, New Berlin, and Greendale. Acura of Brookfield prides itself on excellent customer service and upholds the long standing reputation of the Acura of Brookfield. Whether you are taking advantage of a great APR Rate, Lease Special, Purchase Price, this Brookfield, WI Acura Dealer will assist with your next purchase all while assuring a hassle free car buying experience. ONE OWNER - This Acura Certified vehicle has undergone an extensive evaluation and reconditioning process completed by trained professionals. Our Certified vehicles also include all keys and remotes, new wiper inserts, new all season mats, owners manual, radio and navi codes. Services and updates performed during the evaluation include: OIL AND FILTER, REPLACED THE TRANSMISSION FLUID, REPLACE AIR AND ...