Sunday 23 May 2010

How I Saved $97 on a Brake Job, and You Can Too!

We all hate be taken advantage of, and car repairs are no exception. Now, mechanics aren't the richest bunch, but sporadic lulls and lean economic times tempts them to offer up services you may not need right away. Of course, everything they say is warranted to a degree, but that doesn't mean you need to do it now, nor should you feel pressured into doing it. The end result is what matters. Can you still safely drive your car without endangering yourself or others? Or put it another way, what is the net effect of what I am doing?

Rule 1 - Know your brakes: The other day, I was getting my brakes done. I knew to get them done because on the prior oil change, a mechanic suggested the pads were getting low. I have a front-wheel drive car, which means my brakes degrade more in the front than the rear (approximately 80% in the front and 20% in the rear for my car). So as a result, I have to get the front brakes done 4 to 5 times more often than the back, all things being equal. Brake pads should last 20,000 to 30,000 miles depending on the driver, while I can expect the rear pads to last longer.

As for rotors, they may only need to be changed every 3rd time, especially if the mechanic smoothes down the rotor. I am told that bad rotors will eventually cause the brake pads to crack, which will obligate you to change your brake pads more frequently.

Rule 2 - Know what is out there: Now if you don't know if you need brakes, many leading retailers, like Midas or Meineke will look at them for free. You can use the Yellow Pages, look at your latest coupon mailer for discounts or search on Google Maps for area mechanics. But be warned, they are going to come back with something 99% of the time. And I love this part. They tell you exactly what needs to be done and a couple of other things that may or may not need work all for free. As long as what they say is true, you now have defined the problem and been given a free estimate. Remember, you are just doing research.

Rule 3 - Focus on what needs to be done: You can bet that the mechanic will always find 5 other things too. You shouldn't ignore these other suggestions, but use this opportunity to discuss with the mechanic what needs to be done, why and what the consequences are if you don't do them right away. Keep a small car journal in the glove box so you are well informed next time you need to go, and then you can make a decision when you are ready and have researched the problem. Unless there is an immediate danger, don't be bullied into something you don't want. You can always drive away or call them back.

Rule 4 - Discuss options. Mechanics always have options. If your mechanic is flexible, he will have a selection for you to choose. While he may not mention the bottom three options, you should inquire if he is willing to do them:

- Premium (bells and whistles) - usually for car nuts or neurotics

- Standard or OEMs - parts that are made to measure exactly the specifications of the original part, and usually recommended by most mechanics

- Aftermarket parts - these are the knock offs. Many perform just as well as the OEMs and are cheaper, but usually not mentioned.

- Budget parts - the cheapest of the cheap, and may not last as long.

- Bring your own - If you can find the parts cheaper, sometimes the mechanic will allow you to bring your own, but you can forget any part guarantee.

A second option is labor. Labor can almost always be negotiated; especially if you already (1) are certain what is wrong and (2) can get enough quotes to negotiate. It can be as easy as saying, "This is the exact problem and this other mechanic quoted me this price. Can you do better?"

Rule 5 - The Guarantee: Sure, we all feel safe and secure with a guarantee. But the truth is the parts have the warranty, not the labor. So if you come back and complain, they may charge you for additional labor. I specifically went to Meineke because they will replace the brake pads for life, as long as you keep the receipt. Of course, I will still have to pay for labor. I consider this a good deal on my car for the front brakes. But since my back brakes rarely get changed, this approach may have the same cost benefit over the life of the car, depending on wear and tear.

The best strategy

Step 1: The best strategy is to have an exact handle on what is wrong before you are ready to have you car fixed. As I said, free brake inspections are common and should be taken advantage of. You can always say, "I'm on my lunch break, and need to get back." Obviously, you want to call first to make sure you can easily get in and out.

Step 2: Once you know what's wrong, the mechanic will give you a quote. Ask the mechanic about his opinion on using aftermarket parts, or other options we discussed. Thank him for his time.

Step 3: Call several mechanics and negotiate on parts and labor, since you already now what is exactly wrong. While my trusty Entertainment Book and some mailer coupons yielded some good deals, I usually can find a better deal by calling 5 to 6 mechanics in the area, and then negotiate. Don't forget to ask about what the guarantee covers, and more importantly, what it doesn't.

With a few extra calls totaling 15 extra minutes of my time and a little negotiation, as well as asking for aftermarket parts, I was able to save almost $100 with after market pads and rotors.

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