Installing front disc brakes and calipers on a Jeep 4x4

15 minutes per wheel. This is a little video of me putting brakes on my Jeep Cherokee. Make sure to raise and support your vehicle in a safe manner. Always use jack stands in case your jack fails. I assume you already know how to remove your wheels and reinstall them. After you get done - check everywhere for leaks. Test drive your vehicle to make sure it feels write. If not - go back and check it out.

Tips For Replacing Car Refrigerant

Caution must be used with filling the refrigerant in your car. Check the gauge - if it reads green, no maintenance is necessary. When summer comes around, you won't want to get stuck in the heat without your car's AC working right. Follow this guide on how to check and refill refrigerant.

Recognize the risk with this sort of upkeep. Auto maintenance isn't for beginners. Severe injuries can occur without due care. If improperly attached, the container of refrigerant can explode in your face. It is important to know the AC system as well, to prevent injury and properly check and refill your refrigerant.

Check the level of refrigerant in your car. If you are now confident of completing this job, then go ahead and find the high pressure line. You should notice the marking clearly as with most other vehicles. Attach the line with the gauge to the high pressure line. There is no need to fill up the refrigerant if you have a green gauge. Your system is going to need the coolant to be refilled if you have a red gauge. (Caution: if the pressure is too high, have a mechanic take a look at the problem to avoid explosions)

The refrigerant should only be filled if necessary. If you find it is necessary to refill the refrigerant, purchase a can or two and then follow the directions on the container to properly attach the can to the line. With the can in the right position, release the refrigerant. There are different methods of release; sometimes it is a pin on the top of the refrigerant can.

The next step is to turn up the air conditioning to high and unscrew the valve on the can of refrigerant. Release the refrigerant into your car's air conditioner lines. In order to encourage the flow of the liquid into the AC system of your vehicle, hold the can upside down. It is possible for the can to freeze during this so be cautious. The can may get really cold - even forming ice - so wearing gloves is compulsory. As the refrigerant refills into your air conditioner, the can will feel lighter, and once you think it is empty, shake the can just to be sure. If so, throw the can away.

You must recheck the gauge. A low reading may be the result of needing to pour another can of refrigerant into your system. Keep watching the gauge during the process. Your car will be at the recommended refrigerant levels when the needle shows the normal range or slightly higher. Don't put too much refrigerant in your air conditioner just to empty the can. Retain the remainder of the contents of the can for the next time you may need to check and refill your refrigerant.

Frequently Asked Questions When Replacing Or Changing Car Bulbs

If you need to replace or upgrade your car bulbs, whether it is headlight bulbs, sidelight bulbs, indicator bulbs or even brake light bulbs, finding out exactly which type of bulbs you need and how to fit them correctly can sometimes prove quite a challenge. The easy option is to take you car down to the local main dealer and ask them to the bulbs for you, although you will certainly have to pay a hefty premium for the parts and labour.

However with the right knowledge and a few simple tools you can quite easily do the job yourself, and make considerable financial savings in the process. In order to help you understand what is required when buying and changing vehicle bulbs this guide has been designed to answer the most commonly asked questions.

How can I find out which car bulbs are fitted to my vehicle?

Initially you should consult the car owners manual, normally all of the bulbs fitted and their locations will be listed within it. Alternatively there are now some very good search tools on the internet, whereby you enter your vehicle's, make, model and year and it will show you which bulbs you require. One point to note is that whilst he owners manual or online search tools are very accurate, occasionally the vehicle manufacturer will change the design, specification or parts supplier during a production run so inaccuracies can occasionally occur.

Should I replace my car bulbs in pairs?

If you are changing your headlight bulbs or sidelight bulbs then the answer is yes, and this makes good sense for two reasons. Firstly if one headlight bulb has blown the other one will follow quite shortly so if you change them both together you wont need to worry about repeating the job for a while. The second reason is that as headlight bulbs get towards the end of their service life their performance starts to reduce, and so if you only changed one headlight bulb you would be left with a light imbalance that reduces the performance of your headlights and can prove distracting. When it comes to changing other car bulbs like indicator bulbs or brake light bulbs it is normal practice just to replace the failed bulb.

Can I touch the glass when changing the car bulbs?

If you are replacing headlight bulbs or sidelight bulbs filled with either halogen or xenon gas, then you should not touch the glass, because the natural oils on your skin will leave a residue on the glass bulb, which creates a hotspot when the bulb is illuminated and can lead to the bulbs premature failure. To prevent this it is a good idea to wear latex gloves when changing your headlight bulbs. For all other bulbs like indicator bulbs, number plate bulbs or brake light bulbs it does not matter if you touch the glass.

When buying replacement bulbs how can I tell if they are good quality?

Although car bulbs from different manufacturers can look identical, they can differ quite considerably in terms of quality of construction, materials used and the testing process that they have undergone. The best quality bulbs are labelled as OEM and this stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer and it means they were built to exactly the same standards as the bulbs that were fitted to your vehicle when it first left the factory. The other mark to look for is the testing standards E1 mark. The E1 code denotes that the bulb has been tested in Germany, which is widely regarded within the automotive industry as superior.

When it comes to buying your replacement bulbs, it is a good idea to shop around between the internet, large chain stores and small independent accessory shops. However never buy simply on price alone, always look for the OEM and E1 marks so you can be assured of buying a high quality product. Working car bulbs are something we all take for granted, but good quality cars bulbs are vital for road safety helping you to be seen and to see more clearly, so always aim to fit the best for your own safety and added piece of mind.

A Closer Look at Automotive Engine Parts

If you own a car or truck then chances are you need good automotive engine parts for servicing your vehicle. There are hundreds of different parts for your car, and your engine can be a very complicated machine to work on. That being said having proper knowledge of what goes where and how it works is very important.

Vehicles of all kinds need maintenance and the first type that comes to mind is an oil change. Typically you want high quality oil for your car but that's not all that's needed. You also need a good oil filter in order to ensure proper oil flow. Having this routine operation done on schedule can keep your vehicle running for a very lone time.

Next operation that comes to mind is a tune up. This requires some of the most basic automotive engine parts and many people can do it themselves. The parts needed for this are spark plugs, spark plug wires, a distributor cap, and an air filter. The operation is simple, and does not take very long to perform.

Aside from the smaller simpler operations many complex repair and maintenance procedures require expensive and heavy duty automotive engine parts. Anything pertaining to the cylinders, valves, water pump, and belt system can be very expensive. If you need work in any of these areas it's generally not a good idea to put it off. Of course this is true for most repair procedures but especially in these categories.

Alternators are one of the more pressing automotive engine parts to take care of. They can also be one of the most infuriating as poor quality models will continually go out. These can also run quite a bit of money and you don't want to have one replaced more than once every 3 years. Unfortunately they aren't something that you can simply ignore and deal with until they fail.

The alternator is what keeps your battery recharged when the car is running. If it is damaged or not working properly it won't recharge your battery properly and this can result in your car not starting. It can also do some damage to your cars electrical system as well. Having your cars wiring replaced is a very expensive and time consuming operation.

The most important part when talking about an engine is the engine block itself. This is essentially the main part that everything else fits inside of, plugs into, or runs off of. A cracked block can lead to severe performance problems and eventually a destroyed motor. It's best to get these serviced right away as the longer you leave the crack the worse it can get.

Automotive engine parts are some of the most complicated products to shop for. There are many different brands and models for the myriad of different automobiles on the market. For the first time shopper it can be immensely confusing and overwhelming. If you have to shop for parts make sure you go to a reputable store and ask for help. Most auto parts stores will be happy to help you find what you need and recommend the right model for your car.

Making Sure Your Car Is Safe For The Road

Whether heading to the corner store for a gallon of milk or taking that much talked about cross country road trip, a safe car can mean the difference in getting there in one piece and not getting there at all. There are several tips and recommendations in order to ensure that your car is functioning properly and safely, but what it really comes down to is prevention.

If you own a car, it is vital that you are familiar with the common and basic systems of the vehicle; this goes past acknowledging that the Check Engine light is on. The two areas of the car that are relatively easy to keep in check and become familiar with are the tires, and oil. Always keep the tires inflated at the appropriate levels as this will cut down on the chances of getting flats or blowouts. While in the area of the tires, the brake pads are an integral part of the car and easy to check. Over time and with use, the brake pads will wear out which will make braking dangerous; at this point the pads will need to be replaced. With many cars, the brake pads can be seen without even removing the tire and there will often be a loud screeching sound that can be heard as the car brakes; this means that the pads are worn. If they are in need of replacement, do so immediately. Replacing the brake pads can be done in home or at a mechanic. The fluids of the car are all important and the oil among the most needed. Without oil the car can become overheated and many of the engine components can be ruined. What started as a cheap oil change can become a very costly repair. Checking the oil is a simple procedure and when it is running low or in need of a change, a quick trip to the garage will be in order.

Sure, there are numerous other areas of the car that need to be checked and maintained on a regular basis. It is always important to follow the repair schedule for all these components as this will make sure that the car is running at peak performance. Preventive measures and being proactive about repairs is another important step. Keeping the car safe on the road is surprisingly simple as long as the proper steps and preventive measures are being followed.

The Check Engine Light - What it Means and What to Do About It

You may have noticed a yellow warning light on your dash that may say "Service Engine Soon" or simply look like a picture of an engine. This is the Malfunction Indicator Light, or Check Engine Light. If the light is on while you are driving, it indicates an emissions related failure of a system or component on your car.

Keep in mind that emissions standards are pretty tight, and the light can be turned on by literally hundreds of different causes. Sometimes, the light comes on with no noticable change in the car's performance, and sometimes the car performance suffers significantly. Anything from a loose gas cap to a major engine fault can trigger the light.

The way this light works is through your car's on board engine management computer. It has the primary job of making sure the exhaust emissions remains within limits. It runs "tests" on these systems and components... some are run all the time, and some only run once a drive cycle. If a test it runs fails, it stores that information. If it is a critical system, it will turn the light on as well. If not, the computer will wait until a second testing verifies the problem, and then turn the light on.

Finding the problem starts by connecting to your car's computer and asking it what problem it saw. It tells the technician this in the form of a Diagnostic Trouble Code or DTC. A common mistake is to take your car somewhere and having someone not trained retrieve this information for you. For example, you may find a code stored for an oxygen sensor biased lean and be sold a replacement part that may or may not solve the problem. The computer can't tell us (yet) exactly what caused the problem or test failure... only what test it ran. It is up to a trained technician to diagnose the exact cause to insure a proper repair.

If your Check Engine Light comes on, at the very least it is affecting the fuel economy and performance of your car, and should be tested to make sure it's not a major problem. Most reputable technicians will retrieve the code and then recommend a course of action for little or no fee.

How I Saved $97 on a Brake Job, and You Can Too!

We all hate be taken advantage of, and car repairs are no exception. Now, mechanics aren't the richest bunch, but sporadic lulls and lean economic times tempts them to offer up services you may not need right away. Of course, everything they say is warranted to a degree, but that doesn't mean you need to do it now, nor should you feel pressured into doing it. The end result is what matters. Can you still safely drive your car without endangering yourself or others? Or put it another way, what is the net effect of what I am doing?

Rule 1 - Know your brakes: The other day, I was getting my brakes done. I knew to get them done because on the prior oil change, a mechanic suggested the pads were getting low. I have a front-wheel drive car, which means my brakes degrade more in the front than the rear (approximately 80% in the front and 20% in the rear for my car). So as a result, I have to get the front brakes done 4 to 5 times more often than the back, all things being equal. Brake pads should last 20,000 to 30,000 miles depending on the driver, while I can expect the rear pads to last longer.

As for rotors, they may only need to be changed every 3rd time, especially if the mechanic smoothes down the rotor. I am told that bad rotors will eventually cause the brake pads to crack, which will obligate you to change your brake pads more frequently.

Rule 2 - Know what is out there: Now if you don't know if you need brakes, many leading retailers, like Midas or Meineke will look at them for free. You can use the Yellow Pages, look at your latest coupon mailer for discounts or search on Google Maps for area mechanics. But be warned, they are going to come back with something 99% of the time. And I love this part. They tell you exactly what needs to be done and a couple of other things that may or may not need work all for free. As long as what they say is true, you now have defined the problem and been given a free estimate. Remember, you are just doing research.

Rule 3 - Focus on what needs to be done: You can bet that the mechanic will always find 5 other things too. You shouldn't ignore these other suggestions, but use this opportunity to discuss with the mechanic what needs to be done, why and what the consequences are if you don't do them right away. Keep a small car journal in the glove box so you are well informed next time you need to go, and then you can make a decision when you are ready and have researched the problem. Unless there is an immediate danger, don't be bullied into something you don't want. You can always drive away or call them back.

Rule 4 - Discuss options. Mechanics always have options. If your mechanic is flexible, he will have a selection for you to choose. While he may not mention the bottom three options, you should inquire if he is willing to do them:

- Premium (bells and whistles) - usually for car nuts or neurotics

- Standard or OEMs - parts that are made to measure exactly the specifications of the original part, and usually recommended by most mechanics

- Aftermarket parts - these are the knock offs. Many perform just as well as the OEMs and are cheaper, but usually not mentioned.

- Budget parts - the cheapest of the cheap, and may not last as long.

- Bring your own - If you can find the parts cheaper, sometimes the mechanic will allow you to bring your own, but you can forget any part guarantee.

A second option is labor. Labor can almost always be negotiated; especially if you already (1) are certain what is wrong and (2) can get enough quotes to negotiate. It can be as easy as saying, "This is the exact problem and this other mechanic quoted me this price. Can you do better?"

Rule 5 - The Guarantee: Sure, we all feel safe and secure with a guarantee. But the truth is the parts have the warranty, not the labor. So if you come back and complain, they may charge you for additional labor. I specifically went to Meineke because they will replace the brake pads for life, as long as you keep the receipt. Of course, I will still have to pay for labor. I consider this a good deal on my car for the front brakes. But since my back brakes rarely get changed, this approach may have the same cost benefit over the life of the car, depending on wear and tear.

The best strategy

Step 1: The best strategy is to have an exact handle on what is wrong before you are ready to have you car fixed. As I said, free brake inspections are common and should be taken advantage of. You can always say, "I'm on my lunch break, and need to get back." Obviously, you want to call first to make sure you can easily get in and out.

Step 2: Once you know what's wrong, the mechanic will give you a quote. Ask the mechanic about his opinion on using aftermarket parts, or other options we discussed. Thank him for his time.

Step 3: Call several mechanics and negotiate on parts and labor, since you already now what is exactly wrong. While my trusty Entertainment Book and some mailer coupons yielded some good deals, I usually can find a better deal by calling 5 to 6 mechanics in the area, and then negotiate. Don't forget to ask about what the guarantee covers, and more importantly, what it doesn't.

With a few extra calls totaling 15 extra minutes of my time and a little negotiation, as well as asking for aftermarket parts, I was able to save almost $100 with after market pads and rotors.

Brake Pad Change

Me changing my Acura's rear brake pads

Front Brake Repair

Replacing the front brake pads on my grand am.

2004 VOLKSWAGEN JETTA WAGON Madison, WI

2004 VOLKSWAGEN JETTA WAGON Madison, WI Stock #X91667 (608) 807-0468 www.zimbrickfishhatcheryroad.com For more information on this vehicle and our full inventory, call Internet Team at (608) 807-0468. Zimbrick Fish Hatchery Road 1601 W Beltline Hwy Madison, WI 53713 HEATED EXTERIOR MIRRORS POLLIN AND DUST FILTER 8-SPEAKER AUDIO SYSTEM 4-WHEEL DISC BRAKES PERFORM SAFETY INSPECTION REPLACE CRACKED MIRROR GLASS ROTATE TIRES REPLACE STARTER REPLACE FENDER LINER INSTALL NEW REAR BRAKE PADS CHANGE OIL AND FILTER HAS ZIMBRICK SERVICE HISTORY

T 'n N Garage Part II.wmv

Part II

Vinyl Siding Advice For the Homeowner

Vinyl siding is being installed today on homes, commercial buildings, outbuildings and any structure that has areas that are exposed to weather. Siding is available in both aluminum and vinyl materials but vinyl is far more popular today. Siding comes in a range of colors along with accessories to match or contrast in color to the siding. Before purchasing your siding, take the time to look around at other homes or business's to see how they did their color matches and trims. It may give you some ideas you may not have thought of doing with your project.

Different manufacturers make different colors so look around and make sure the color you chose is readily available and in stock if you need extra pieces. Siding comes in different sizes and patterns as well. Cottage siding, 4 over 4, 5 over 5, 8" as well as other styles are available. Some companies offer siding that look like shake shingles or rounded shake shingles that can add a dramatic effect to a plain gable end of a home. 4 over 4 siding means that when you view the siding, it appears to be 2 pieces of 4" high boards, one over the other. 5 over 5 is 2 5 " boards and so on. Smaller sizes makes larger houses look shorter and larger sizes make a smaller house look taller. I have seen siding installed on a slant but this is really tricky and should not be tried on you're your project. Leave that for later.

TOOLS REQUIRED-Measuring tape, pad, pencil, ladders, scaffolds, pair of sawhorses, a 14' long planks for sawhorses, saw, Quick Square, 4' level, razor knife and blades, siding punch, pair of Snips, hammer, tripod and level (rent at local rental outlet). Scaffolding with hand rails may be necessary as well.

MATERIALS- Siding, starter strip, J-bead, Vinyl corners, F-bead, insulation backer board, aluminum nails.

Installation-You must take careful measurements of all the areas that you are going to cover with siding. Measure the length and width (or height) of each area and record the measurements. Unless there is an over abundance of windows, ignore them for now. Do all the math by multiplying the lengths by the widths to get the square feet of siding you require. Use even footage, not inches. If all your measurements come to 1600 square feet, each box of siding contains 2 square, so you need a total of 8 boxes. There are no ½ boxes. 1700 square feet you need 9 boxes. You will need extra siding in any case for cuts and repairs later on. Starter strip is measured one time around the base of the walls. 30' x 30' building uses 120 lineal feet of starter strip. Soffit J and other trims are a little harder to figure. Depending on how your soffit panels are to be installed, you need at least enough F-bead to go all the way around the building once if you use it only on the wall. If you use it twice, once on the fascia and once on the wall, the amount doubles. I use F-channel only once on the wall above my siding. I terminate the siding against the soffit F-channel, use a J-channel at the top of the siding with a termination strip and siding punch and then bend my metal fascia on an L-angle to cover both the fascia board and the end of the soffit panels. Neat, clean and cheaper.

Each window and door opening will require pieces of j-channel as well. Measure each of these on all 4 sides and add that length to your order of j-channel. J-channel comes in 10' lengths. Ok Lets get started. Using your tripod, level and a helper, you must establish a level line all the way around the building to follow. This is where your starter strip is going to be nailed. Do not try and measure it with a tape. If the line is not level all the way around, when you turn a corner the siding lines will not match. Buildings are not perfectly level, ever. You create a false appearance of level, by setting the line and starting your siding on that mark. You may find you have to hold the line down below the plywood a little so as not to have the line come out above the bottom of the plywood somewhere else. The starter strip may hang down below the plywood. Once you have a level line where no part of the siding will start above the plywood bottom, you may nail your starter strip to the building. Starter strip is metal so use your snips to cut them. Nail 16" on center with a nail always on each end. Use as long lengths as possible to avoid joints. The starter strip when installed correctly will lay flat on the building with the bottom pointing away from the building, not towards it. Now install your corners. Corners are pre-made, color coded and come in 10' lengths. Hold the corner slightly below the start strip when nailing. This will assure the bottom of the siding is fully within the corner piece and looks nice and neat. Nail the corners 16' OC. Your siding will end in these corners.

The first piece of siding locks onto the starter strip and getting it over a bunch of joints can be a bear to do. If your installing nail-on insulation this is the time to do so. Cover 4-5-6 feet up the wall to start. Keep the joints as tight as possible. First piece of siding. Siding comes in 12'-'6" lengths so you want to figure out the least waste. When one piece of siding laps over the other, an open joint is created. Face the open end of the joint away from the road or prevailing winds. Install the first piece by first placing it below the starter strip and pulling upwards until the bottom groove on the siding locks onto the starter strip. Do not pull the siding upwards to such a point you actually put pressure on the starter strip. The siding should sit loosely against the starter strip. Nail the siding 16" OC, placing your nails in the middle of the slots in the top edge of the siding. NO NOT DRIVE THEM HOME! You want the siding to be able to slide back and forth with temperature changes. It does expand and contract. If you drive the nails home and lock the siding in place, the siding will buckle. Also when installing your siding in warm weather and the siding is hot, hold the end of the siding approx. 1/2" from the end of the corner slot. When the siding is cold, hold the end of the siding approx. 1" from the end of the slot so there is room to expand.

Measure from the top end of the siding to the end of your wall, if your next piece of siding is less than a full piece. You want the cut end of your siding to go into the corner trim and stay ½" or so from the end. Pieces of siding overlap each other and lock together. When done correctly, the top edge of the siding will have a ½" gap between the nail slot portion of the siding. Each piece of siding moves independently of each other so other than corners and trims, siding is never nailed solidly or "hard" to the walls. It will take some getting used to doing this part of the installation. With insulation behind the siding the siding will tend to jump around a little and does not give a solid surface to nail against. You will catch on quickly but don't be afraid to pull a nail back out and reset a new one. Now is when you really see what the building is going to look like. Siding applies very quickly and if you have a helper to cut and supply you the materials, it goes even faster. Most carpenters will setup a jig on their saw horses so a full piece of siding will lay flat allowing easy marking for cutting.

Cutting can be done with snips but a plywood blade mounted backwards in your power saw, makes short work of vinyl siding cuts. REMEMBER TO REMOVE THE BLADE WHEN YOU ARE DONE! DO NOT TRY AND CUT PLYWOOD WITH THE BLADE IN BACKWARDS!!! ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR SAW WHEN INSTALLING THE BLADE AND ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN USING THE SAW AS WELL.

As you encounter the window and door openings there will be cuts to the edges of the doors, that's easy, windows are a little harder. A window bottom never falls at the bottom of a piece of siding. It's some kind of a weird law. This will require a cut that leaves the window opening in the top of the siding piece and must be slid up under the J-channel window trims. Remember to leave room for expansion on the ends and in the j-channel slots at the sides of the window as well. When nailing any siding, avoid pulling the siding up hard against the lock on the piece below. You want the new piece to balance halfway in the slot. Not at the bottom, and not hard against the top. Every few pieces, step back and make sure you are installing the siding level. Pulling on the siding and not realizing it, can cause the siding to run out of level very quickly. Place your 4' level horizontally under the lip of the new piece of siding to check it is in fact level before nailing.

Top of wall-Ok we are to the top of the wall. Everything looks straight and level so we want to complete the wall. Measure from the bottom of the lock to the top of the wall. IF and it's a big IF, the last piece would be cut at the thickest part of the siding, you may be able to install just a j-channel, slide the piece into place and the j-channel will hold it. Not likely, so, you install a piece of j-channel around all the edges for a finished appearance and then install a piece of termination strip inside that. The trim flanges are wide enough for you to nail one over the other without damaging the other piece. Using your siding punch, work along the cut edge and punch holes every 16" or so for the entire length of the piece. You will see that the flat part of the siding where it was cut now has holes in it and the material "punched" out, has formed a bump in the siding piece. When you install the siding, the bumps will lock into the termination strip and hold the siding in place. Only occasionally and then only at the top of the siding in gable ends, a small (4 penny) galvanized finish nail will be driven through the siding to assure the last piece does not come unlocked and fall. This only works in a situation where the piece is very small and high up enough so the nail cannot be seen. A vinyl siding slot punch is really handy. Just slide the top edge of the siding in the jaw and close the punch. It will create a dimple that will hold the siding in the j-channel.

Vinyl siding unlocking tool. Very handy when having to remove a piece of siding. Just slip it behind and into the lock and slide it along the length thereby unlocking the siding when removing a piece in the middle of a wall. You must have a good pair of sharp snips for odd cuts. A razor knife wil also be needed for very small adjustments ot siding pieces. Always remember to cut away from you.

Maintenance- All vinyl siding will fade with exposure to sunlight over time. It is usually gradual and not noticeable unless you place a new piece alongside. When replacing a piece of siding due to damage, expect to see a color variation. Once a year a good washing with a vinyl siding cleaner helps keep your siding bright and nice looking. Cleaner is available in 1 gallon bottles at most hardware or retail lumberyards. Occasionally a piece may come unlocked in high winds. You can reinstall it with your siding unlocking tool. Just slide it in under the siding until the tip is in the lock and pull downwards to force the lock under the piece below and slide it long until the entire piece is relocked. It takes some muscle but it can be done and is far less work than removing all the siding.

Fascia trims- Fascia material is available in rolls of differing widths. Once you measure how wide the fascia board is (8") plus the angles that have to be bent to cover the edge of the soffit panels, etc. (1") you know each piece needs to be 9" wide before bending. Rolls come in 18" widths (among others) so you will be able to get 2 pieces from each piece you cut. You will require a sheet metal brake for this work. Do not try to bend the material using 2x4's or by hand. It will simply crinkle and be ruined. Sheet metal brakes come in 8' and 10' lengths. Rent a 10' brake if at all possible. Less joints, less work. When installing the metal the edges will be sharp so careful handling is required. Using a colored matching aluminum nail, place the piece over the fascia, UNDER the drip edge and the bottom 1" leg over the ends of the soffit panels. The fascia piece will look like an L with one 8" leg and one 1' leg using our sample measurements. Use as few nails as possible. Over use of nails will cause the fascia to "oil can" or bend when sunlight heats up the metal. Fascia can be cut with tin snips. You will quickly learn how to bend corners, small cover pieces, etc. to make your work look good. Also remember to always lap your pieces with the top one over the lower to shed rainwater wherever that situation occurs. End joints in fascia should again face away from the road or the prevailing wind direction whenever possible.

Once you have completed a small siding project, a larger project is basically the same, it just involves more materials and a great deal more labor. With careful measurements and application you will have minimal waste of materials and can save thousands of dollars by doing this project yourself.

AutoZone Coupons For Your Car's Needs

Time for your vehicle's routine checkup? Whether it's routine or not, or maybe you just need new parts from a reliable shop, AutoZone can help you with whatever concern you may have regarding your vehicle. If you want a reliable shop that only provides you with parts and accessories from the most credible brands and you want to get these for a reliable price, don't forget that you can always get AutoZone coupons.

A lot of shops today offer different discounts and specials, and AutoZone is no different from those stores. You can get more than half the price cut off if you find the really good ones, and if you'd rather have the parts delivered, you can also save on the shipping fee as well. Another great thing about AutoZone is that they offer an online service as well so if you're like many people today who have little time to spare to themselves and don't want to use that time just to drive up their car to a repair shop, you can consult first AutoZone through their site.

You can also browse their products this convenient way. But since you're already for online convenience, the AutoZone coupons can also be downloaded online easily. There are a lot of friends I know who saved a lot on car parts and accessories because they purchased it online. Not only is this way more convenient, but it's also more affordable. So if you are worried that you'll be spending a lot of money on car repairs, worry no more because now you can be sure that whatever happens, you'll get discounts through the AutoZone coupons.

Auto Repair & Maintenance : How to Change Brake Pads

When changing brake pads on a car, make sure the car is jacked up, remove the bolts on the caliper and remove the brake pads. Replace brake pads in a car with help from an auto mechanic in this free video on car maintenance and repairs. Expert: Tom Brintzenhofe Bio: Tom Brintzenhofe has been a mechanic for the past 17 years. Filmmaker: Reel Media LLC

How to Replace Brake Pads

There aren't many things as dangerous as a car with inefficient brakes, you know this.

Regularly changing brake pads is really important.

Your safety while driving depends on several factors but regarding brakes it all depends on equipment: saving few bucks on brake pads isn't worth!

There's no need to go to the mechanic to replace your brake pads, you can easily do it yourself.

If it's the first time you do it allow it some hours, it's not difficult but it will require some time if you're not experienced.

Attention: after driving the car brake pads and brake discs are hot.

Avoid any possible risk working in a safe area.

Make sure your car will not move at all, set the handbrake and park in a plain area.
Loosen the lug nuts before jacking the car up.
Jack the car up so you can remove the wheel as if replacing the wheel. (Use two jack stands for your safety)
Remove the caliper bolts and make it slide away from the disc: brake pads are the black parts that were near the disc surface.
Remove them from the caliper: there are several kinds of calipers so you have to see how it works in your car but you should easily do it: it's just a matter of bolts or clips.
Take the occasion to check brake rotors condition, rotors must be the more smooth possible and must not have any asperities. If it's damaged you'll have to get a new one. Discs can also be reconditioned but it's not recommended.
Now, with the new thicker pads you need to push the caliper piston back to its original position in order to create enough space for the new pads, you might need an adjustable spanner or a C-Clamp.
Apply brake pad grease on the part that won't be in contact with the rotor and put them inside the caliper.
Reassemble everything as it was and proceed with the other side and the rear axle if your car has four disc brakes.

You're done, go out for a test and drive slow. Pay attention, the brake pedal might be softer and braking spaces longer. In few days the new pads should reach their final position and any noise should disappear.

Make sure you reassemble everything carefully.